Every Bit The Journey

The journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step, and this is mine.

Montana Mountains

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Devils Fork Entrance

Hiking South Carolina – Devils Fork State Park

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On June 13, 2023

In Hiking & Camping in South Carolina, SC State Parks, Travel

I was able to make an impromptu visit to the park with Radar and stayed with some family for a night. My son and his family are traveling from another park and we are meeting at Devils Fork. The drive up is uneventful and Radar naps most of the way. I stop for gas and a quick snack from the Lakeshop at the junction of SC-11 and the turn-off to Devils Fork. Surprise! Coincidently my son and his family are stopped there as well. I follow their van the remainder of the way into the state park.

Devils Fork Campsite
Devils Fork Campsite

Our tent site is a gorgeous walk-in tent site about 20 feet from the edge of the lake. We must leave our car in the parking lot and carry everything to the campsite. Our designated camp site is a couple hundred yards in. Most of the walk-in trail is paved but there are some unpaved portions between the trail and tent sights. The pad site is near the waters edge, sheltered a little by trees, yet still with a nice breeze off the lake. Really a gorgeous pick. All of the tent camp sites here are well established pad style tent sites. You must pitch your tent on the site tent pad. Most of the camping tent pads around us are pretty spacious and include a fire ring and lantern stand. With bears are in the area, we were advised to store food overnight in our vehicles at the parking lot.

Devils Fork Lakeshore. My son and his daughter at the waters edge.
Devils Fork Lakeshore. My son and his daughter at the waters edge.

This is Radar’s second over-night camping trip (you can catch Radar’s first overnight campout here). He seems concerned and watchful. I think he is still unsure about what the heck is going on. Maybe its the newness of the area, maybe the sounds of the lake, maybe the scent of bears in the wind. This night he sleeps lightly on his bed under my tarp and hammock. It’s around 3 am when Radar alerts to an intruder near our camp. I struggle to get my light and look under the tarp from the my hammock to catch a glimpses of what set him off with some warning barks. Whatever it was has moved moved on leaving us alone the rest of the night. Radar is ever watchful. The next morning is “moist” with light rain as we make breakfast and discuss the days plans. The forecast has a small window of clear weather then rain, rain, and some more rain.

Devils Fork, Radar in camp
Devils Fork, Radar in camp

The weather ends up cutting our trip short. But before heading home I took advantage of the break in the rain. I was able to take a quick walk along the park’s nature trail with Radar. We even found some of the rare Oconee Bell plant (See our hike video here, comment below to let me know what you think). Devils Folk has a fairly short 1.5 mile nature trail in the main park. The trailhead is off the large boat ramp parking lot near the visitor center. The Oconee Bell Nature Trail winds through a mostly hard wood forest down around a creek and small pond before returning you to the start. One really nice feature of this trail is the labeling of botanical specimens all along the trail.

Devils Fork hike3
Devils Fork hike3
Devils Fork hike2
Devils Fork hike2
Devils Fork hike waterfall
Devils Fork hike waterfall

There are dozens of sign posts and story boards along the trail, identifying the various trees and plants along the way. The Friends of Jocassee have a great online trail guide which takes you trough the trail’s plants as you hike. One of the biggest points-of-interest on the trail is the Onconee Bell plant itself. An endangered rare plant, it grows in only a few spots in the state. The weekend we visited the plant happened to be in bloom. A moist area ground cover plant, it was sporting the delicate, white and pink, bell shaped flower.

Devils Fork trail hike, the Oconee Bell flower
Devils Fork trail hike, the Oconee Bell flower
Devils Fork Lakeshore
Devils Fork Lakeshore

Located in the upstate of South Carolina, on the shores of the 7,565-acre Lake Jocassee, this park offers ready access to the lake, fishing, and camping. You can get a view of Lake Jocassee from the park webcam here. This 644 acre park park is about 10 miles North of Salem, South Carolina in Oconee County or about a 4 hour drive from the Charleston Area. Located in the Northwestern part of the state, Devils Fork State Park is one of South Carolinas newer state parks having been created in 1990. Anchored on the Sothern side of Lake Jocassee, the park has Villas, traditional RV/camping sites, and walk-in tent sites. The park does have some boat-in-only camping sites located on the Northern side of the lake. All sites need to reserved ahead of time.

Favorite Time of year: I will have to go with Spring to catch the Oconee Bell flower in bloom.

Things to Know: The breeze off the lake can be refreshing in the summer. However can bring a good wind chill factor in the winter. Oh and bears.

Camping: Camping is available at Devils Folk State Park (reservations required).

Pet friendly: Must be leashed at all times, including the forest, okay everywhere outdoors except cabin and lodging areas of the park.

Getting There: Devils Fork State Park is just West of Table Rock State Park off highway 11. Check the State Park directions link. It’s about a 4 hour drive from the Charleston. area.

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Sassafras Mountain East View

Peak Bagging in South Carolina

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On April 15, 2023

In Hiking & Camping in South Carolina, Life, life events, SC State Parks, Travel

I just “happened” to be in the area and on a whim decided to detour over to Sassafras Mountain and bag this peak. Radar and I are returning from an overnight family camping trip at Devil’s Fork State Park in the North West part of the state. It’s Friday morning and we’re all heading home a day early. Our camping trip was cut a little short due to some rainy weather and the forecast for more of the same.

I realized South Carolina’s highest peak, Sassafras Mountain at 3,553 feet, is on the way home. Sort of. I check my map app and it looks like Sassafras Mtn is sort of almost on the way home. I don’t know when I’ll be able to get back up in this area. So a slight detour to the North and we are on our way.

Getting there requires a short drive into North Carolina. It’s strange but you can’t drive to South Carolinas highest peak from South Carolina. You must drive out of the state and into North Carolina in order to get to the peak. Sassafras mounting actually straddles the border of North and South Carolines.

Sassafras Mountain Tower approach
Sassafras Mountain Tower approach

I was here a few years ago (maybe in 2018) when the tower was still under construction. We were dropping some grateful hikers off at their car in the parking lot, It was late a night. I ran up to the peak but could see anything (being nighttime and all). So I’ve always wanted to come back.

Sassafras Mountain Plaque
Sassafras Mountain Plaque

We’re taking SC highway-11 home anyway so I detoured and take the winding roads to the mountain peak. It’s about 1:40 pm as we get to the Sassafrass Mountain parking lot. The weather has been off and on rain all day but it’s just a short walk up the trail to the observation tower. The rain lets up as we start up the trail. As we get to the top of the tower the sky is overcast but the rain has stopped, at least for now.

Sassafras Mountain East View
Sassafras Mountain East View

The view is good for the day I think. they say you can see for 50 miles on a good clear day. I imagine the view will be amazing. Maybe on my next visit.

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Radar's not sure

Radar is Amazing on his first real camping trip

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On October 18, 2022

In Hiking & Camping in South Carolina, Palmetto Trail, Travel

My first efforts to take Radar on a real overnight campout and then hiking went incredibly well. Radar and I have hiked together a fair amount. And we’ve glamped before. But we haven’t actually tent camped and hiked in one outing before. Hopefully this overnight adventure was a test run for more fun outings to come.

We arrive at Mill Creek county park about 5:30 pm. Mill Creek county park is a popular equine camping staging area located in Sumter County, at the southern end of the High Hills of Santee Passage of the the Palmetto Trail. There are a few horse trailers already set up for camping there. We select and set up our camp site near the trailhead leading north to the High Hills of Santee trail. Radar is nervous. He doesn’t know why we’re here this late in the day. Tent camping is all new to him and he’s not sure what’s happening. I put his vest on him to see if it will help calm him down any. I’m picking tarp camping to start out with him which is a little bit of a challenge in and of itself. I guess I figure we may as well start hard and work toward easy. Park rules say he needs to be on leash in the park, although not all dogs here are. There is at least a pug and another heeler here too. The pug runs up next to my car as I arrived, dragging it’s leash, seemingly convinced it was more important to greet us as new arrivals to camp, regardless of it’s own personal safety and the potential hazards of being crushed by a moving vehicle. Anyway we’ll see how the leash thing goes. I had picked up a 50′ roll of paracord from Lowe’s on the way with the idea I could make a long lead for Radar in camp. I also brought his bedding from home to make him feel a little more at home along with his regular food and water bowls. I have a couple collapsible bowls I usually bring when we go out for hikes but will save them for the trail tomorrow. Right now he’s sitting on my lap in the chair (his choice), watching everyone and everything else around the camp.

Radar's not sure
Radar’s not sure

There is a mule in an impromptu electric fence corral next to a couple of horse trailers on the right of us. They have the pug and heeler. Across from us is another pair of horse trailers with a shepherd and lab. Everyone seems to know everyone. They started a camp fire at the pair of trailers across from us and the people from all four trailers are sitting around the fire chatting. The sun is getting ready to set so I’m going to feed Radar and eat now myself.

Radar's first night tarp camping
Radar’s first night tarp camping

Up in the morning. I was awake early but am waiting until the sun starts coming up. It was a little bit cooler than I expected last night with this early morning temperatures at about 45 degrees. Note to future-self: Things to bring on fall campouts, gloves and a warm hat. I am glad I brought my heavier sleeping bag, a 20 degree sleeping bag, which was perfect. Radar did incredibly well for his first night of tarp camping. He only got up a few couple of times in the night, left the tarp, and walked around. I think he was check out noises from the adjacent woods. No barking, just checking. I got up a couple times myself to pee and he followed me close. Because we were under a tarp, I had to keep him on the long lead most of the night but for the last hour or so waiting for sunrise. This last hour we both just lay here waiting for sunrise. The ground is pretty hard and my Z-fold pad isn’t making much of a difference. I’m beginning to think I may need a different pad.

Radar still seems a little nervous this morning so when I got up for a quick walk to the bath house, I took him with me. I wanted to use the larger stall so Radar could come in with me, but someone was already in there so we went back to our campsite. Who get’s up at the crack of dawn to use a bathhouse anyway? When we get back to the camp site, I open up the car to start getting breakfast ready and Radar jumps right in and takes his place on the front seat. I don’t know if he thinks I might leave him or not but he isn’t taking any chances. He comes out of the car for his morning meal while I have a nice trail breakfast of hot oatmeal and a café mocha. It feels good to be in backpacker/hiker mode again. I’m dressed for the trail. It’s been a while (too long) since I’ve been able to get out and do any real hiking.

Radar is ready to hike
Radar is ready to hike

After clean up and repacking my hiking day pack, I put on Radars hiking vest. I want something with a little color on him as we are hiking in the Manchester State Forest, which is public land, during hunting season, and I don’t have any blaze orange with us. I think once Radar realizes we are going hiking he really relaxes a lot. We are on trail, north bound, at 8:50 am. Radar is off leash, much to his hiking joy, once we get out of the park but I do have a leash just incase we meet horses or other hikers. Proper trail etiquette and all. Not everyone seems to like dogs.

High Hills of Santee Passage heading out
High Hills of Santee Passage heading out

The High Hills of Santee Passage I think I’ve hiked at least a dozen times. It’s a great section to hike and I usually start out new backpackers on this trail. There are a lot of access roads and the trail is well marked most of the time. Since it’s been a while for me, I’m loosely planning to hike maybe 3, 4, or 5 miles out, depending on how I feel and the day goes. Then turning around and hiking back. The trick is leaving enough fuel in the tank for the return trek. I figure if I can start hiking by 9am, we can maybe hike like +-3 hours, we could eat lunch and then hike back. Being on trail by 8:50 is a perfect start.

High Hills of Santee Passage sandy trail
High Hills of Santee Passage sandy trail

The issue with the early section of this trail (besides the quicksand patch) is it’s sandy. Sandy like walking on dry sand at the beach sandy. It really sucks the energy out of you. Starting out in the morning fresh is okay (’cause you’re fresh) but finishing at the end of a hike is tough, it’s like hiking an extra mile or two when you’re tired.

The day goes well, the weather is cool, clear and perfect hiking weather. We hike well and make good time. We covered about five and a half miles and make Christmas Mill Road by about 11:30. As we reach the crossroads, there are a whole group of trucks with hunters coming in and starting to unload. Rather than stop there for lunch, we just start our return leg and hike about an hour more before we stop for a good lunch break.

High Hills of Santee Passage young pine forest
High Hills of Santee Passage young pine forest

Radar seems to understand when I tell him “we’re heading back to camp, back to the car.” His ears are up and he leads the whole way back to camp. He follows the trail flawlessly, even when the trail crosses a road or splits, he picks out the correct path on the other side. As we were hiking out of camp north bound, he would generally stay close to me alternating between ahead, behind, or off trail checking out smells and noises, usually not much more than about 75 feet away. Heading back south bound to camp, he occasionally is going off trail to check a noise or smell, but mostly he is leading with purpose, maintaining about a 50-75 feet lead ahead of me on the trail, stopping ever so often and looking back to make sure I am still with him, stopping in the shade, waiting for me to catch up, and then he starts trotting off down trail again.

High Hills of Santee Passage pine forest
High Hills of Santee Passage pine forest
High Hills of Santee Passage open field
High Hills of Santee Passage open field

We stop for lunch around noon. Food and water for both of us. I have a couple collapsible water bowls but it’s hard to judge when hiking and how much water he needs. I make sure he has his fill of water during our lunch stop. The final leg to camp is more sandy and the day is warming up. We’re back on trail by 12:30 heading in to the home stretch now. Nearing the last quarter mile from camp we run into a string of horses with riders, we pull off trail to let them pass, Radar sits and waits. This is a big test because he loves horses. Really, really loves horses. Nipping tails kind of love. He stays, the riders pass intact. We hike on. I’m very happy. We make it back to camp around 2:10 pm. As we enter back in to camp we make for a picnic table in the shade and break out the last of our water. The hike is a win. A great hike and overall a great little campout. Radar crushed the hiking part of the trip and I think he’ll get the hang of this tent camping thing without any issues in the future. Now to figure out the next trip.

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Santee SP Camp at night

Hiking South Carolina – Santee State Park (with a Free recipe!)

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On December 21, 2021

In Hiking & Camping in South Carolina, SC State Parks, Skills, Travel

It’s been almost 10 years since I’ve last camped at Santee. It was nice to get back out to this park. Working with a youth group this time, we camped in the primitive “Scout Camping” area at Santee State Park. Santee is yet another State Park gem in the South Carolina State Park system.

Santee SP boat ramp looking over Lake Marion
Santee SP boat ramp looking over Lake Marion

Set on the wester bank of Lake Marion, this park offers ready access to the lake, fishing, and camping. This 2500 acre park park in Santee Cooper County is easy to get to. It’s just 3 miles north of I-95 and the town of Santee. It’s a popular camping and recreation site for anyone seeking a break from the daily grind. While I’m usually found in the group or primitive campsite, there are about 158 standard camping sites, including 30 cabins. This park also has about 10 miles of bike/hiking trail. Somehow I’ve overlooked these in the past. I defiantly need to add these to my things-to-explore list for my next trip.

I’ve been to this camp dozens of times over the years. After a long hiatus, it was interesting to find virtually nothing had changed, at least at the primitive site. While functional, the primitive area old cold water bathrooms seemed exactly the same, down to the same peeling paint. Again functional, but unchanged in over a decade. I was able to get out of camp for a short walk. See a video of the hike here and let me know what you think.

Cooking class table layout
Cooking class

Our main purpose for this trip was to teach and model different cooking techniques for new campers. We included base camp and backpack style recipes, foods and food preparation, and cooking methods.

Free Recipe

Here is one simple quick backpacker recipe which everyone seemed to enjoy.

Chicken & Stuffing
Ingredients: 
1 Package of Chicken/Turkey Flavored Seasoned Stuffing Mix
1 or 2 Foil Pouches of cooked chicken.
1/2 to 1 Cup of water

In a group size pot (+- 1 liter), boil the cup of water and remove from heat. Add the cooked chicken, stir. Add the stuffing mix, stir well. Serve.

A 12-once package of stuffing mix can feed about two hikers. Adding a couple 2 or 3-ounce packs of chicken will boost up the protein. You can fancy the meal up with a few cranberry raisins and chopped nuts stirred in from your trail mix too.

Favorite Time of year: Anytime for camping.

Things to Know: The breeze off the lake can be refreshing in the summer. However can lower the chill factor in the winter.

Camping: Camping is available at Santee State Park (reservations required).

Pet friendly: Must be leashed at all times, including the forest, okay everywhere outdoors except cabin and lodging areas of the park.

Getting There: Santee State Park is just North of I-95 and the town of Santee. It’s about an 1 hour drive from the Charleston. area.

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On top of Blood Mountain 2011

My 2021 Backpacking List

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On May 27, 2021

In Hiking & Camping in South Carolina, Outdoor Tips, Skills, Travel

What the heck to pack?

I’m heading out this weekend for a backpacking hike in the foothills of upstate South Carolina. I’m leading a small mixed experience group of hikers on this trip. One common question of new hikers is “What do I need to pack?” My answer is usually far from black and white. Specific gear recommendations can be very personal and individualized. I’ve seen people walk in to an outfitter and buy “everything” (from pack to socks everything) new all at once and I’ve seen people stuff what they have in a duffle they and hike the weekend. The bottom line is everyone is a little different and the same gear doesn’t work for everyone. I tell people to look around, shop around, find the things you like and try it out. Hiking or backpacking gear doesn’t need to be the latest top of the line. You need to be comfortable with your gear and it needs to perform for you when you need it to work.

I’ve been working on my gear list for years now. A little here and there. I’ll try something for a while, change it out, try something new. Generally I look for more efficient or lighter as I go. The most recent change up is with my pack. I’ve moved off my external frame to try out an internal frame. The plus of my new pack is it’s half the weight of my old, The con so far is I’ve had to take a whole new approach with organizing my gear in a top loading pack. I’ll probably come back to this later in the year. But for now, this is my basic packing list for 2021. Feel free to take a look and leave a comment.

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Lake Marion Passage

Getting Back Out on the Lake Marion Passage

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On May 18, 2021

In 2021 Palmetto Challenge, Hiking & Camping in South Carolina, Palmetto Trail, Travel

It feels good to be back out on the trail.

The Lake Marion Passage is a 35.9 section of the Palmetto Trail, South Carolina’s long trail. I’ve hiked a few miles of the lower part of this trail in 2019 (Santee/Hwy 301 to Jacks Creek) before I started working full time again that year. I’ve also backpacked north on the High Hills of Santee Passage dozens of times over the years with my volunteer organizations.

On this day, Radar and I decided to hike the Lake Marion Passage from the Northern end for a few hours. With snacks and water for both of us in my day pack, we headed out South bound from the Mill Creek County Park Trail Head. Our section of trail was in fair to good condition and it was a great hike. It felt good to be out in the woods again. This section doesn’t appear to heavily traveled and we were by ourselves the whole time. The weather was great and cool enough the bugs weren’t an issue. As it’s spring everything was green. After heading out from the trailhead, we hiked in to the woods along the trail a little over a mile before we came across a long boardwalk/foot bridge over the swamp.

Lake Marion Passage - Foot bridge across the swamp
Lake Marion Passage – Foot bridge across the swamp
Lake Marion Passage Wild Flowers
Lake Marion Passage Wild Flowers

I think Radar picked up the swamp smell before we saw the bridge. He took off, bounding towards the swamp – until he started sinking in the soft mud. realizing the error of his ways, he high-tailed it back to the trail where I was laughing for him. After crossing the swamp via the designated foot bridge, the trail follows the land contour for about a mile, with cut forest on the East side and low ground and swamp canopy on the West. We picked a good turn around point where a dirt access road intersected the trail. Hopefully soon I’ll be back to hike more.

Lake Marion Passage water break
Lake Marion Passage water break

When hiking with a K-9 buddy, it’s important to include a snack and water dish in your day hike gear. I use a small collapsible bowl and carry extra water to share. On this trip I brought a small amount of his regular dog food for a his snack. After a short water and snack break at our turn around spot we headed back the way we had come. This time, Radar took the foot bridge over the swamp. But only about halfway. I guess he figured “Bridges – who needs them when you have the sweet cool savory wetness of the swamp?” and over the side he jumped. Swimming, chest deep, in to the cool mud to the other side of the swamp. Sigh. He couldn’t have been more happier.

Lake Marion Passage - a perfectly good foot bridge
Lake Marion Passage – a perfectly good foot bridge
Lake Marion Passage - Swamp puppy
Lake Marion Passage – Swamp puppy

We didn’t have any real problems on this portion of the passage. While scenic, the Lake Marion Passage does have some broken sections. Be prepared to work around some issues if you hike the whole passage. Coming out of the town of Santee, there’s a 3 mile section which uses the old 301 bridge. The bridge was closed by SCDOT “indefinitely” in 2017. The only current work around is to catch a ride on I-95 over the lake. Old River Road bridge over the Halfway Swamp has been washed out long enough for the trail to be rerouted along local roads. And depending on the lake levels, some of the trail along the lake shores may be underwater or very soggy.

Hiking Lake Marion Passage trail with Radar
Hiking Lake Marion Passage trail with Radar

Overall, this was a great in and out 5 miles round trip hike. I’m looking forward to picking up this trail where we left off.

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21 Hike Challenge Logo

Spring has Sprung with the 2021 Palmetto Trail Challenge

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On March 22, 2021

In 2021 Palmetto Challenge, Hiking & Camping in South Carolina, Palmetto Trail, Travel

Last year, for reasons we’ll not discuss, the Palmetto Trail folks didn’t have an annual hiking challenge. Well this year they are making up for it with a get-21-hike-in-10-months challenge. Oh and the hike need to be on the Palmetto Trail. So I signed up for a fresh hiking start for the new year with the 2021 Palmetto Trail Challenge.

The Palmetto Trail is South Carolina’s long trail. When finished it will run about 500 miles from the mountains to the ocean. Of the currently open sections I’ve completed about a third of the passages so far. Some passages I’ve hiked a dozen times, most only once.

After a year of being trapped inside, I’m looking forward to finding my hiking boots and getting them a bit dirty again. I’ve already completed some sections of Palmetto trail and am hoping to use this challenge to motivation me to stitch in some new sections. But this years tasking will be a bit challenging with my full time job and volunteer schedule. I’ll need a plan to hit those 21 trails in 10 months.

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Mountains of Montana

Hello Montana (part. 2)

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On December 9, 2020

In Life, Montana, Travel

Southeastern Montana is a weird mix of wide open plains, constrained by fences, huge rolling hills, with sparse stands of pines. I am impressed with the scale of the wilderness here. This little corner of Montana feels like it’s a big cattle state. There are fences for cattle everywhere, there are even cattle crossing gates or guards getting on and off the interstate. Even the buffalo are fenced in. The deer and antelope may play but it’s not a free range world anymore. Welcome to Montana.

Landing in the great state of Montana was with a bit of apprehension as the temperatures had dropped and were running below zero our first couple days. Neither of us were ready or prepared for the early morning negative degree temperatures. Who in their right mind would think -7 degrees would be somewhere people would like to live?

Day 1 in Montana
Day 1 in Montana – Super Cold!

A little back story is probably due here. My brother is an avid hunter and this year was able to pull a long awaited Elk tag in Montana and had asked me along for the journey. This is actually the third (see An Elk-tastic Adventure) such adventure my brother and I have done. I drove up and met my brother in Virginia where we flew out to Montana. On our first day out in the woods was an every-layer-you-could-wear kind of day. Fortunately, for me at least, the temps over the next week rose to a way more tolerable level with lows running in the low 20’s and 30’s.

Over the course of the next 10 days, our daily routine typical consisted of awake at 5 am, packing gear, making lunches, and get ready for the day, on the road by 6 am. With a quick breakfast sandwich and coffee, we would travel to an area to explore. In the morning, we would hike in (and often up too), hike out, return to vehicle, find an area to explore for the evening, return to home base and repeat.

Mountains of Montana
Mountains of Montana

After several days of coming up empty handed, we picked up a “hot tip” from another hunter so we thought we would give it a go. This particular day started as most, with an early morning wake-up, pack up, on the road, and into the woods all in the dark. We’re about halfway through our trip at this point and the hot-tip indicated elk may be hiding in the basin on the other side a tough hike up and over more tough terrain. The route in was described as just over a mile and a half in, but it came with 1500 feet of evaluation gain. Logic indicating if it’s hard to get to, that’s where they elk will be. So off we headed.

The weather was still cold as we hiked partly up an old logging road in to the pine woods. As we slowly made our way up the snow covered trail of the old road, we were even successful in jumping a few deer. This told me we were stealthy enough to get close, we weren’t making too much noise, and if there were deer, maybe there would be elk. We saw lots of track crossing our path, but not much more after the deer. The old logging road passed through the forest to open hillside, the snow and road faded on the high side of the forest, giving way to a game trail at a fence line. We followed the well traveled game trail, continuing up and over another hill as the day warmed. The game trail eventually lead to a rock peak.

We ate a lunch here under the large tree near the ridge.
We ate a lunch here under the large tree near the ridge.

We had started hiking from around 7100 feet and went up to about 8600 feet. As a short hike goes this sounds easy but it took us a few hours to reach our peak. The peak looked over a basin as promised, with more and more peaks continuing after it. The view in to and across the basin from the peak was awesome, there was just one thing missing. Elk. This particular basin, like the vast majority of the areas we explored in Montana, while promising, was void of game. We sat on the ground under the large pine near the ridge, ate our lunch, and contemplated the ways of nature before we headed back out and down the way we had come.

A hiking path up a Montana Mountain
Frosty Mountains Montana
Halfway to "up there"
A view from the hiking trail

On one of our treks out to the wilds, we were able to do one of the neatest things, at least from my perspective. We were working an area west of Lima and we were able to hike out far enough to set foot on some hiking trails leading to the Continental Divide Trail (CDT). The CDT is one of Americas long trails running 3100 miles from Mexico to Canada along the Rocky mountains. While I’m still section hiking the Appalachian Trail, being able to step out on to part of the CDT was huge motivation to keep on hiking. It’s one thing to be tromping around in the Montana wilderness, it’s another to walk along a trail you know runs across the country from bottom to top. It’s a little hard to explain the difference here, but just walking along the hiking trail for even a few hundred yards, made the trip worthwhile for me.

For almost two weeks, we hiked up and down seemingly countless trails, bushwhacking across hill and mountain sides, stalking, standing, siting, waiting, up early, home late, looking very hard for the elusive elk we had traveled so far to tag, all to no avail. For the last hunt day of our trip, we had followed another “hot tip,” (law enforcement had to close one of the interstate roads to allow a heard of elk cross) wo we had been working this valley area. We had selected a promising river basin area we suspected the elk were traveling to and from. Up and in the field early again, we crept our way in, hunkered down and waited. After the sun was up, we stalked around a bit, but to no avail. By lunch we were back at the car and ready to head back to the hotel and pack up for our flight home the next morning.

As fortune would have it, we had just pulled on to the interstate, traveling east, when we spotted the elk. not just one or two elk. not a dozen elk. But a whole herd of elk, maybe herds of elk. Possibly all the elk in Montana (probably not but it looked like it). There were between 200 to 300 elk, sitting safe in the middle of a private field, eating clover, sunning themselves, watching the world go by, not a half mile from the interstate.

All the Elk in one place, in the open
All the Elk in one place, in the open.

We pulled off the road and were both laughing. The elk knew what was going on, they knew where it was safe to hangout and enjoy the day, waiting for dark. We watched the hundreds of elk lounging safely in the field for while, then we headed back to the motel to pack for our flight the next day back to Norfolk. With no elk.

Landing in Norfolk
Landing in Norfolk

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Over Montana

Hello Montana!

By

On October 28, 2020

In Life, Travel

Traveling again and off on an adventure.

After working though the shutdowns in the year of the China flu, I’m way ready for a break from the norm.

My brother and I are going to be spending some time exploring the mountains of southwestern Montana. For him it’s elk, for me it’s the opportunity for some exploration, getting out and getting some back country time With the whole lockdown thing it’s time to get out and stretch my legs a little.

Flying today is a little bit of a new experience with all the precautions, not undoable but not overly pleasant either. I thought the blue paper mask might be a little more comfortable, but halfway through the trip I switched back to my normal buff type face covering. I think our total flight time was around 5+ hours. Best part of the trip? Airport pizza for breakfast.

Updates to come.

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Mt Mitchell and Waterrock Knob benchmarks

It was a Summit kind of Weekend

By

On August 20, 2019

In Life, life events, Travel

Mt. Mitchell (6684′) & Waterrock Knob (6292′) are in the bag. This was as much an impromptu therapy couple days as much as anything else. It felt good to get out and go (highly recommended).

I had read about the southern sixer’s and decided to go out and try to bag a couple. Unfortunately, I had some pesky obligations for Monday (work), so I had to box in my plans down to driving up Saturday to North Carolina from Dorchester, South Carolina, hike a couple peaks, and then drive home on Sunday.

Normally I like to do a whole lot more planning when I’m heading in to somewhere new. This time I pretty much just hit the road, I had not really scope out the trails, or much of anything else, so I didn’t know what to expect when I arrived at the trail heads. This worked against me a little where I had wanted maybe a little more trail time and hit another peak or two, but the unknown added to the sense of adventure too. It ended up with me really not too sure where to pick up some of the trails to another nearby peak until it was too late in the day. This was still a really good trip. What I did know is Mt. Mitchell is the highest peak east of the Mississippi, I figured I would go there first.

I basically just took my backpack (just in case), a change of clothes, some dog stuff an hit the road with Radar as my co-pilot. It felt like I had loaded more stuff for Radar than me, but I think I’m just a better packer than he is. Radar (with the help of Mr. Garmin) was able to expertly navigate us from the house all the way to the Mt. Mitchell visitor center parking lot without missing a turn.

Radar is concerned about my level of planning

The trip up from south Carolina up to Mt. Mitchell was pretty uneventful, for a 5+ hour drive. Radar and I got to the Mt. Mitchell visitor center parking lot around mid afternoon. The visitor center was amazingly nice with ample parking. We geared up and headed out and up the mountain. Because of my lack of extensive trip planning, I really didn’t have a good idea how far it was to the summit, I found the hike from the visitor center parking lot summit trail head to the summit was incredibly difficult (just kidding, it was surprisingly easy!). The trail to the summit is actually paved and is an easy short walk for most people. The air was cool and a nice refreshing change from the heat in the low-country.

Radar and I submitted Mt. Mitchell about a quarter after 3 in the afternoon, on July 20th. The summit on this day was in the clouds, so visibility was pretty socked in – not really a whole lot to see. But then the view was not the prime reason I had come.

Summit of Mount Mitchell

I did not know this until I got to the summit (must remember to planning more), but Mt. Mitchell is named after Elisha Mitchell. He died on the mountain in 1857, trying to prove the elevation of this mountain. His remains are buried on the summit still. Mountain graves and memorials are not uncommon, I’ve seen a number while hiking over the years. I often stop and think about the person behind the plaque. What events in their life brought to where they ended up. I leave a stone to let them know they are not forgotten. I again left a small stone. This time; the name of a cousin of mine was engraved on the stone.

Several years ago I sadly lost a cousin and I had made a small memorial stone for him. In the back of my mind, I wanted to leave it on a tall mountain somewhere. I had brought this stone with me on this trip. It seemed fitting, so I left my stone on this high mountain, 6684 feet above sea level, discreetly near the summit of the highest peak East of the Mississippi River. Radar and I returned to our car and headed down and west along the Blue Ridge Parkway, towards Ashville, for the night.

We stayed in a pet friendly independent motel (which shall remain nameless – unless you ask) on the edge of Ashville. I had selected it on the internet strictly based on price. Radar took one look at the motel room, then me, and pleaded with me not to leave him there alone when I went for dinner. I couldn’t blame him. So we both headed out for some Mexican at restaurant with an outdoor patio. When we returned to the motel we took turns sleeping. I gotta say, they tried, it really wasn’t too bad, and it was an experience, but I likely will not schedule a return there anytime in the near future.

Anyway, Sunday we were up and out early. We had to head home but I wanted to try to bag a couple more peaks, if we could. Back on the Blue Ridge Parkway, we continued heading west from Ashville, towards Waterrock Knob. One of our high points on the way, was being able to claim standing on the highest park of the Blue Ridge Parkway.

High point
The highest road elevation along the Blue Ridge Parkway

By the time we got to the Waterrock Knob visitor parking area, I knew we would be pressed for adventure time. There was supposed to be a trail at Waterrock Knob which ran across three or four peaks there. Unfortunately again, my (lack of) high level, detailed, planning would catch up with me. This peak also had an amazingly nice visitor center (they even let Radar inside) and nice parking. However, unlike Mt Mitchell, the trail to the summit of Waterrock Knob was not such an easy hike. The trail to the summit, while fairly short, just under a mile, it was a steep up hill climb. It felt good to work a little for the hike up.

Radar leading on the trail to Waterrock Knob

Like Mount Mitchell, the peak was also clouded in so the view was limited to the inside of the clouds. We hung out at the peak a little catching my breath. I tried to pick up the trail to the next peak, but really didn’t know where to go. With a limited time schedule and really not knowing the trails held me back from getting likely hopelessly lost that day. So we just explored the peak a little. Hidden in the grass and almost covered with dirt, we were able to locate the benchmark. With this as the days accomplishment, I felt good about heading back down. I told Radar next time he needs to research this trail stuff a bit more. During our decent we located a couple more trails which were likely candidates for some future hikes, but for now, we were done. It was time to head back home.

  • View from Waterrock Knob
  • Waterrock Knob Visitor Parking
    Waterrock Knob Visitor Parking
  • Radar after hiking up Waterrock Knob
    Radar after hiking up Waterrock Knob

Radar surprisingly slept almost the entire way back home. It was nice to get out and back up to the mountains. Being on the trail even for just a little while, helps put things back in place. Over all, a very therapeutic and worthwhile trip.

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