The journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step, and this is mine.

Montana Mountains

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Radar

So, this is Radar. He’s a Blue Heeler and is just over a year old now. We came across each other a couple months ago. Sometimes in the course of normal events, your life changes. For both Radar and I, this is one of those times.

I had been considering a dog for a while now for a number of reasons. Maybe part trail buddy, part body guard, part wing-man, who knows. A few years ago, I had once hiked a 20 mile piece of mountain trail with a group. One of the hikers had a great trail dog with him. This trail buddy would constantly run up and down the group starting in the front and working toward the back, checking on every hiker in the group. For twenty miles. He was never more than 20 feet off trail and never more than a few hundred yards from his master. Quite honestly, I felt like I needed that kind of a buddy  now from somewhere deep down inside me. But I didn’t really have any particular breed or clear concept in mind. It’s funny how these things work out sometimes.

I had shared some of my idea for a four legged companion with a friend of mine, Brenda, and the hunt began. She had done some checking and offered to go with me to go to a friend of hers “just to look” at one. Her friend boards dogs in the area and happened to have a young heeler someone had dropped off. Radar had been with her for a month or so while she was trying to find him a home. For Radar, he seemed to have had a rocky start. He had been given up or returned several times in his just short first year of life. I think he would fall pretty cleanly in to the “rescue dog” category. Rejected, abandoned, and unwanted, he waited.  Even in a pack of dogs he stood out to me. I really couldn’t tell you why, maybe it was his story, maybe it was mine. But that day, I left with him on a borrowed lead and a commitment in my heart to try my best to be a good companion for him.

It’s been about four months now since our paths crossed. We’re still working out a couple small differences (he likes to get up early, I like to sleep in a bit), and learning about each other (he loves to chase a ball or toy, but really doesn’t float well). I work with him and he teaches me what he knows.  My life has changed again, and so has his. Both for the better.

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It’s Saturday Eve!

The week is about over and I’m heading camping this weekend with a bunch of new campers. This weekend should be fun as I really enjoy introducing new campers to the outdoors. With spring just around the corner, I am looking forward to the weather starting to break and the green to start popping. I so wanting to get out on a trail soon. So much of “normal” life gets in the way of that however (heavy sigh). I really need fix that, but for now, it’s the new campers campout which will help take the edge off “civilized” life.

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Who speaks for the trees? – (Part 3)

Following our lunch under the pines, we continue towards Poinsett State Park and the end of our hike. I know we’re near the the end now, there is a public parking lot ahead for staging mountain bikes and horses, our hiking trail passes through it on the way to the state park. However as we emerge from under the tall pines, about a half mile from this parking lot, we are presented a view which is hard to describe. The hills rising up in front of us are raw, striped bare of all living things. I am a little surprised at the completeness of the destruction. We hike up from the creek bed to the top of the hill and look around. Hundreds of acres of nature, wiped away. There are no bushes. There is no grass. There is no wildlife. There are no more trails. The only things remaining, are charred broken sticks where a forest once was. Even the tree stumps are cut so close to the ground as to be nonexistent. The caretakers of the land have sold off their charge to the highest bidder. This saddens me greatly. I look around for a sign of our trail, out of habit I guess, only to realize following a trail here doesn’t really matter any more. We strike out across the wasteland to get to the road crossing as quickly as we can. We pick up the trail and crossing over in to the state park side of the hike, I am relieved to find one of my favorite parts of this hike still intact, the little forest of scrub oaks draped with Spanish moss. But as I look back sadly, with a heavy heart, at the desolate, charred, waste behind me, I wonder … who speaks for the trees?

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Lunching in the pines – (Part 2)

Most of the trail in this section is wide enough to walk side-by-side, making conversation easier between hikers in a group. I enjoy listening to the path these conversation take. On some hikes the same theme may run for days.  Today the trail talk is mostly down memory lane. Some of our group will be graduating soon or moving on to do other things. Today, as we hike through the Manchester State Forest, they are reminiscing fondly about past exploits and adventures of past camping trips. I know we are nearing a cut section of forest soon, so we take our mid-day break on a small hill, under a stand of tall pines. It’s cool but not cold, the forecast rain threatened, but ultimately was a no-show for this trip. Everyone is relaxing a bit sitting on the blanket of pine needles, eating, chatting, and airing their feet. Someone is debating the pro’s and con’s of grits verses oatmeal as a breakfast choice. Someone is sharing their favorite trail lunch. It’s a great day to be out on the trail with friends. It’s days like this which make me want to keep going.

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The morning is cool, the coffee is hot – (Part 1)

It’s been a while, but it feels good to get out again. I’m sitting at picnic table in the dark cool pre-dawn hours at Mill Creek county park, enjoying a warm drink of coffee and hot chocolate. There are eight others in our group. We’re hiking the High Hills of Santee. For some of them, this is their first backpacking experience, for others, they have hiked this section of the palmetto trail before, maybe even several time. For me, I think I must have been down this trail over a dozen times. It will be nice to be back on the trail again, it’s like visiting an old friend, almost like coming home. The sky is starting to lighten a little. They are all still sleeping now, but soon will be up, making bathroom runs, chatting, cooking breakfast, breaking camp, and packing their gear for the hike. But right now it’s quite.

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Outdoor Tips – Sleeping Warm

Avoid hypothermia – Never sleep in wet clothes, I tried this once, horrible idea. You should change out of your day activity clothes and into night or sleep clothes. You perspire during the day, and even with layers of clothes it will be likely the inner layers are damp although you may not realize it at the time until it’s too late. The dampness will cause you to chill at night. Leave your day clothes out to dry or air out overnight. Absolutely change your socks to a dry pair for sleeping.

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Hiking South Carolina – Colleton State Park

This one is a little different. With “just” a .3 mile interpretive trail, hiking is not really the main draw, but yet Colleton State Park is a hidden little gem in the South Carolina State Park system.

Nestled on the banks of the amazing Edisto River, this 34 acre park serves as the headquarters of the Edisto River Canoe and Kayak Trail. The Edisto River is the longest free-flowing black-water river in North America and offers some 63 miles of incredible canoeing & kayaking. Having a watercraft is not a requisite for visiting this park. While this park is the smallest in the SC park system, located in Colleton County, just off I-95, this 34 acre park is a popular dropping in point for paddlers, fishermen, and anyone seeking a break from the hustle and bustle of life.

I have camped at Colleton State Park dozens of times over the years (with and without a canoe) and am impressed with the parks steady improvements. Every year there seems to be more and more done to improve the park and services offered. While I’m usually found in the group or primitive campsite, there are about 25 standard camping sites, including a cabin overlooking the Edisto River. The short Cypress Swamp interpretive trail runs from the park entrance down through to the river side Canoe Dock.

Favorite Time of year: Summer for paddling, Anytime for camping.

Distance: About .3 miles.

Things to Know: This is an Easy hike.

Camping: Camping is available at Colleton State Park (reservations required).

Pet friendly: Must be leashed at all times, including the forest, okay everywhere outdoors except cabin and lodging areas of the park.

Getting There: Colleton State Park is just East of I-95, between Walterboro and St. George, right off highway 15. It’s about less than 1 hour drive from the Charleston. .area.

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Hiking South Carolina – High Hills of Santee

Looking for a great one day hike? Then this may be the answer. This passage of South Carolina’s Palmetto Trail snakes through the Manchester State Forest, linking Mill Creek County Park with Poinsett State Park. The High Hills of Santee Passage trail gets its name from the high, rolling sandy dunes, which are part of the regional geology. These rolling hills are the ancient ocean shoreline found in the state’s midland area. This is one of my favorite hikes when introducing new hikers to the trail.

Located in Sumter County, near the Northern side of Santee Lake, this 10 mile trail winds through the forest from Sumter County’s Mill Creek Park (+-195’), North up to Poinsett State Park. As the Manchester forest is state managed, you will pass through a couple areas which have been logged in the past and are now in various stages of regrowth. The term forest however is a little misleading.  With fairly diverse terrain, including rolling sand ridges, mixed pines and hardwood forest, creeks, and even a patch of quicksand, there is plenty to keep the hike interesting every step of the way.

Of course you can hike in either direction, I prefer starting at Mill Creek Country Park and Hiking toward Poinsett State Park. The southern end of the trail is a bit more sandy and easier to travel through while you’re fresh. Towards the northern end of the trail you enter more rolling hills and wooded sections. As you come up from Shanks Creek crossing, there is a parking lot area before the trail crosses Poinsett Park Road. You are within the last few miles before entering the state park. With a latrine here, this is a great spot to take a short break before the last leg of this hike. Crossing over the road you pick up the trail again. You will step into another completely different type of wooded area as you enter a forest of scrub oaks draped with Spanish moss. This is one of my favorite sections of this hike. As the trail enters the park, it crosses and drops off to the left of the park road and winds down around the creek as you head toward and around the Old Levi Mill Pond. You will comes out of the woods and cross the earthen dam holding back Old Levi Mill Pond. While you are there, take a few minutes and explore the Singleton Grist Mill ruins and old grinding wheel. You end your hike at the park visitors center (+-100’) trail head at the parking lot.

Favorite Time of year: Fall through Spring

Distance: About 10 miles

Things to Know: This is a Moderately Easy hike.

Camping: Camping is available at both Mill Creek County Park and Poinsett State Park (reservations required). Both parks have restrooms, bathhouses, and parking. For all permit and reservation information at Mill Creek county park, call Steve at (803) 436-2248.

Pet friendly: Must be leashed at all times, including the forest, okay everywhere outdoors except cabin and lodging areas of the park.

Getting There: Poinsett State Park and Mill Creek Park are both located near on the Northern side of Santee Lake, and West of the town of Sumter, in Sumter County, South Carolina. It’s about a 1 hour drive from the Charleston area.

Hiking South Carolina – Awendaw Passage

Need a quick getaway? Then hike this out and back. Just a short hop from Charleston, this trail winds down along the Intracoastal Waterway to the southern terminus of the Palmetto Trail and the Buck Hall Recreation Area.

This trail has a lot of hiking flexibility. If you are hiking solo or with only one vehicle or want to simply do the extra mileage, you can hike this trail out & back in a day, enjoying your trail lunch at the Buck Hall Recreation Area. With a couple vehicles, you can do a quick one way hike in either direction. I prefer hiking to the recreation area as there are picnic tables, bathrooms, and waterfront scenery which are nice amenities while you enjoy a lunch break.

For an out and back day hike, park at the Palmetto Trail Swamp Fox trail head on the west side of Hwy 17. Heading north on Hwy-17, you will go past the trailhead before you get to a turn-around on the divided highway. This trailhead is a little hard to pick out but it is just after Steed Creek and before Murell roads (you went too far if you get to the St. James AME Church). Once you get parked and geared up, the trail heads north out of the parking lot for about a half mile where it connects to the Swamp Fox portion of the Palmetto Trail. You’ll head East to branch off towards Awendaw. Heading to the West, the main trail will continue as the Swamp Fox portion of the Palmetto Trail. The Awendaw portion of the trail will loop back easterly along an old railway bed then following a dirt road, will head southerly crossing Hwy-17 (use caution) and continue to the canoe launch ramp on Awendaw Creek. This is a nice place for a short break. You can sit, enjoy a snack, and watch the water flow by. You’re about halfway to the recreation area here. From the canoe ramp, the trail will generally following the creek winding along the salt marsh and through the coastal palmettos, scrub oaks, and pines. You will cross over several foot bridges until the creek enters the Intracoastal Waterway. The trail loops back to the North just a short stretch and then turn southerly as it enters and ends at the Buck Hall Recreation Area boardwalk. The recreation area has a number of shaded picnic area where you can sit and enjoy lunch and views of the intracoastal waterfront.

Favorite Time of year: Fall through Spring.

Distance: 7.1 miles (one way)

Things to Know: This is an easy hike. If day hiking and leaving a vehicle at the Buck Hall Recreation Area there is small a day use/parking fee. Remember, this is the Lowcountry of South Carolina, so be prepared for a few wet parts along the trail, especially after a good rain. During the warmer months, the South Carolina mosquitoes can be a bit … ferocious.

Camping: Waterfront camping and restrooms are available at Buck Hall Recreation park (reservations required).

Pet friendly: Must be leashed at all times.

Getting There: Located along US-17 just a short distance from downtown, it’s about a 40 minute drive from the Charleston area.

Hiking South Carolina – Kings Mountain

This is a great hike any time but more so during reenactment weekends. The national park hosts several living history events with period encampments and demonstrations throughout the year. I  normally have done this hike over the Memorial Day weekend inconjunction with the park’s “Military Through the Ages” event. The historic significance of the battle ground really is driven home as you near the end of the hike. You get a real sense of what life and travel was like 200 years ago.

This 16 mile trail loops through both Kings Mountain State Park and Kings Mountain National Military Park. You can pick up the trail from one of the organized group primitive camping sites (+-800′) or from the state park camp ground, the trail loop conveniently passed both. Water and latrines are available in both areas. You will start out heading South and wind towards the South-west as the trail takes you over some rolling hills. The trail passes several wilderness designated camp sites and streams along the way. Near the state park’s southern boundary, the trail will make a fairly sharp turn to the North and rising up and away from the water. Just before this direction shift happens, the stream flattens out a little with some low banks. This is a good place to top off your water. The Garner Creek Campsite (+-700′) on the national park side is on high ground and dry. There is another stream past the Garner Creek Campsite but it’s about a quarter mile after the campsite. Once the trail shifts to the North, it rises out of the cooler valleys, becomes a little dryer and warmer. You know you are getting close to the camp site when you cross a dirt road. The Garner Creek Campsite is clearly marked and the only designated wildernes campsite of the national par side.

Up and on the trail the next morning this section goes pretty quickly with a run up bowns’s mountain and exploring the battle ground visitors center. about a mile after you leave Garner Creek, you will come to a spur trail for Browns Mountain (1045′). Summiting this peak is a short run up to the top of Brown’s Mountain and back down. The visitors center is only a couple short miles from here. The trail loop passes to the North of the battle ground and visitor center. Hike the spur trail on in for a stop at the national park visitor center.

This is a must do if you have not been here before. First of all, the visitor center has bathrooms and water. The area near the bathrooms is shaded and a great place to eat lunch. Second, but probably most importantly, the visitor center and 1.5 mile self-guiding walking trail around the battle field (+-1020′) is the heart of the park and key to understanding the history of the site. One of the cool things about Kings Mountain is the connection to the Appalachian Trail in the Roan Mountain area. In the late September-early October of 1780 (the rebel Americans were knee deep in a not-going-so-well break-away revolt against the British empire), hundreds of men crossed what is today the Appalachian Trail near the Over Mountain Shelter in Tennessee and hiked 80 miles in to history at the Battle of Kings Mountain, changing the tide of the Revolutionary war. Hiking these areas really adds a depth and an order of magnitude to history you just can’t get from a text book.

After touring all of the sights at the national park visitor center, simply retrace your way back to the loop trail and continue the remaining few miles to your starting point.

Favorite Time of year: Memorial Day Weekend, but check the park schedule for reenactments events.

Distance: 16 miles (the 1.5 mile battle field trail is a bonus)

Things to Know: This is a moderate hike. The actual battle ground is in the national park with regular park camping on the state park side. The 16 mile trail loops through both.

Camping: Primitive on the trail. Primitive, tent site, and cabins designated within the park (reservations required). There are several primitive trail camp sites on trail in the state park, however on the national park side camping is only allowed at Garner Creek Campsite.

Pet friendly: Mostly pet friendly, must be leashed at all times, okay everywhere outdoors except cabin and lodging areas of the park.

Getting There: Located near the Northern border of the state, Kings Mountain State Park is in Cherokee and York Counties, South Carolina, just to the West of Charlotte North Carolina. It’s about a 4 hour drive from the Charleston area.

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