The journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step, and this is mine.

Montana Mountains

Category: Travel Page 2 of 6

Mt Mitchell and Waterrock Knob benchmarks

It was a Summit kind of Weekend

Mt. Mitchell (6684′) & Waterrock Knob (6292′) are in the bag. This was as much an impromptu therapy couple days as much as anything else. It felt good to get out and go (highly recommended).

I had read about the southern sixer’s and decided to go out and try to bag a couple. Unfortunately, I had some pesky obligations for Monday (work), so I had to box in my plans down to driving up Saturday to North Carolina from Dorchester, South Carolina, hike a couple peaks, and then drive home on Sunday.

Normally I like to do a whole lot more planning when I’m heading in to somewhere new. This time I pretty much just hit the road, I had not really scope out the trails, or much of anything else, so I didn’t know what to expect when I arrived at the trail heads. This worked against me a little where I had wanted maybe a little more trail time and hit another peak or two, but the unknown added to the sense of adventure too. It ended up with me really not too sure where to pick up some of the trails to another nearby peak until it was too late in the day. This was still a really good trip. What I did know is Mt. Mitchell is the highest peak east of the Mississippi, I figured I would go there first.

I basically just took my backpack (just in case), a change of clothes, some dog stuff an hit the road with Radar as my co-pilot. It felt like I had loaded more stuff for Radar than me, but I think I’m just a better packer than he is. Radar (with the help of Mr. Garmin) was able to expertly navigate us from the house all the way to the Mt. Mitchell visitor center parking lot without missing a turn.

Radar is concerned about my level of planning

The trip up from south Carolina up to Mt. Mitchell was pretty uneventful, for a 5+ hour drive. Radar and I got to the Mt. Mitchell visitor center parking lot around mid afternoon. The visitor center was amazingly nice with ample parking. We geared up and headed out and up the mountain. Because of my lack of extensive trip planning, I really didn’t have a good idea how far it was to the summit, I found the hike from the visitor center parking lot summit trail head to the summit was incredibly difficult (just kidding, it was surprisingly easy!). The trail to the summit is actually paved and is an easy short walk for most people. The air was cool and a nice refreshing change from the heat in the low-country.

Radar and I submitted Mt. Mitchell about a quarter after 3 in the afternoon, on July 20th. The summit on this day was in the clouds, so visibility was pretty socked in – not really a whole lot to see. But then the view was not the prime reason I had come.

Summit of Mount Mitchell

I did not know this until I got to the summit (must remember to planning more), but Mt. Mitchell is named after Elisha Mitchell. He died on the mountain in 1857, trying to prove the elevation of this mountain. His remains are buried on the summit still. Mountain graves and memorials are not uncommon, I’ve seen a number while hiking over the years. I often stop and think about the person behind the plaque. What events in their life brought to where they ended up. I leave a stone to let them know they are not forgotten. I again left a small stone. This time; the name of a cousin of mine was engraved on the stone.

Several years ago I sadly lost a cousin and I had made a small memorial stone for him. In the back of my mind, I wanted to leave it on a tall mountain somewhere. I had brought this stone with me on this trip. It seemed fitting, so I left my stone on this high mountain, 6684 feet above sea level, discreetly near the summit of the highest peak East of the Mississippi River. Radar and I returned to our car and headed down and west along the Blue Ridge Parkway, towards Ashville, for the night.

We stayed in a pet friendly independent motel (which shall remain nameless – unless you ask) on the edge of Ashville. I had selected it on the internet strictly based on price. Radar took one look at the motel room, then me, and pleaded with me not to leave him there alone when I went for dinner. I couldn’t blame him. So we both headed out for some Mexican at restaurant with an outdoor patio. When we returned to the motel we took turns sleeping. I gotta say, they tried, it really wasn’t too bad, and it was an experience, but I likely will not schedule a return there anytime in the near future.

Anyway, Sunday we were up and out early. We had to head home but I wanted to try to bag a couple more peaks, if we could. Back on the Blue Ridge Parkway, we continued heading west from Ashville, towards Waterrock Knob. One of our high points on the way, was being able to claim standing on the highest park of the Blue Ridge Parkway.

High point
The highest road elevation along the Blue Ridge Parkway

By the time we got to the Waterrock Knob visitor parking area, I knew we would be pressed for adventure time. There was supposed to be a trail at Waterrock Knob which ran across three or four peaks there. Unfortunately again, my (lack of) high level, detailed, planning would catch up with me. This peak also had an amazingly nice visitor center (they even let Radar inside) and nice parking. However, unlike Mt Mitchell, the trail to the summit of Waterrock Knob was not such an easy hike. The trail to the summit, while fairly short, just under a mile, it was a steep up hill climb. It felt good to work a little for the hike up.

Radar leading on the trail to Waterrock Knob

Like Mount Mitchell, the peak was also clouded in so the view was limited to the inside of the clouds. We hung out at the peak a little catching my breath. I tried to pick up the trail to the next peak, but really didn’t know where to go. With a limited time schedule and really not knowing the trails held me back from getting likely hopelessly lost that day. So we just explored the peak a little. Hidden in the grass and almost covered with dirt, we were able to locate the benchmark. With this as the days accomplishment, I felt good about heading back down. I told Radar next time he needs to research this trail stuff a bit more. During our decent we located a couple more trails which were likely candidates for some future hikes, but for now, we were done. It was time to head back home.

Radar surprisingly slept almost the entire way back home. It was nice to get out and back up to the mountains. Being on the trail even for just a little while, helps put things back in place. Over all, a very therapeutic and worthwhile trip.

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Congaree NP Entrance Sign

Hiking South Carolina – Congaree National Park

Radar and I hit the boardwalks of the Congaree National Park as part of our Palmetto Challenge and we were not disappointed. The last time I had visited the Congaree swamp area, it was the Congaree Swamp National Monument. There was just a basic visitor center, a few hundred feet of boardwalk, and an open field designated for camping. Congress did a great thing in 2003 when they re-designated the monument as the Congaree National Park.

Many improvements have been made as a result of the national park (NP) designation. The campsites have been upgraded to actual real designated camp sites with central latrines. There is paved parking and a new, much larger, visitor center which explains the history and importance of the entire Congaree basin. It’s here you can also pick up the map and narrative for the Self-guided Boardwalk Tour, which Radar and I did at the start of our walk. The best part of the the park improvements are expansion of the boardwalks and trails. There are almost two and a half miles of boardwalks with dozens of miles of foot trails winding deep through the rich swamp.

On the day of our visit, the weather was perfect. The trees were in their spring green and their high 130 foot canopy providing wonderful shade and a cool breeze. The river water however was elevated at just over 8 feet, and as part of the natural flood cycle, almost all of the low trails were underwater including a portion of the low boardwalk. We walked the low boardwalk out about a half mile to where the flooding waters took over. We stood at the waters edge and watched the water slowly making it’s way through the trees around us. It was kind of magical to be able to stand in the middle of a flooded, flowing swamp. We backtracked and followed the elevated boardwalk out to Weston Lake and then a little past where one of the trails intersected the boardwalk. The floodwaters prevented us from looping any of the trails this day, but we had a great time exploring anyway.

This park offers some great opportunities to explore a rare old growth forest, either afoot or afloat. You can hike deep in to the park on the River & Kingsnake trails. if you like paddling, you can take some amazing float trips through the swamp via canoe or kayak on Cedar Creeks and along the Congaree River itself. My first couple canoe trips in South Carolina were centered around the Congaree River and Swamp. My family and I canoed a very memorable 48 miles of the Congaree River, camping in the wilderness on the banks of the Congaree Park (National Monument at the time). The following month, I led a weekend canoe trek with my scout troop starting on Cedar Creek in the swamp and making our way out on to the Congaree River, again camping in the wilderness. Both trips were adventures in exploration of a wilderness not likely to be found anywhere else.

Conagree NP Weston Lake
Conagree NP Weston Lake

As the largest remaining tract of old-growth bottom-land hardwood forest in North America, the Congaree National Park is a must-visit if you ever find yourself in the area.

Congaree National Park (120′) | SC 48 (Bluff Road) | Richland Co. | Hopkins, SC | 16 April 2019 | 6 miles | 106′ gain | Easy

Favorite Time of year: Spring and fall for camping.

Things to Know: Check the water levels prior to going, you can call or check the river gauges here. Please speak to a park ranger before setting a geocache.

Camping: You need a prepaid reservation for front-country campgrounds, you can make reservations through Recreation.gov or by calling 1-877-444-6777. Back-country camping is allowed please the the Camping page of the NP site for details.

Pet friendly: Pets allowed in most outdoor areas but must be physical restraint or on a leash not longer than six feet. Be respectful of others on the boardwalks.

Getting There: Congaree NP is in the midlands of South Carolina, just South of Columbia about 30 miles, East of I-26 and South of I-77, just off Old Bluff Road. It’s about an hours drive from the Charleston area.

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Roan High Knob Survey Marker

A new adventure in the Southern Sixers

A couple years ago and for a lot of different reasons, I had set and completed the goal of climbing Pikes Peak in Colorado and was able to successfully “bag” my first Fourteener. It was only after I had set my Pikes Peak goal, I learned climbing mountains over 14,000 feet is a thing. Especially in Colorado since they have something like 53 of these beasts. I feel like I would like to try some more of them, maybe, but I would probably need to live in Colorado.

Just this week however, I learned of something called the “Southern Sixers.” These are the tallest mountains in the eastern United States which are all over 6,000 feet. All (besides New Hampshire’s Mount Washington) are in and around the Appalachian mountains of North Carolina and Tennessee. “Wow,” I thought, they sound close to home, maybe I could hike a couple of them. I did a little research, pulled up the list of mountains, and noticed a bunch of very familiar names. Low and behold, it looks like I’ve already hit about a quarter of them!

Now it’s time to start planning to bag the rest of them.

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Eutaw Springs Passage of the Palmetto Trail

South Carolina – Eutaw Springs & Santee Passages

Are you looking for a nice +20 or 30 mile section of trail to take you through shaded woods and rolling meadows to see nature while you hike or backpack? Possibly a secluded camp overnight? Then these two sections of the Palmetto Trail are not for you.

The Eutaw Springs Passage is a 21.3 mile section and the Santee Passage is a 12.7 mile section of the Palmetto Trail bridging the end of the Lake Moultrie Passage to the south and the Lake Marion Passage to the north. I selected both of these sections to explore and hike with Radar as part of our Palmetto Challenge mileage. Boy was I surprised.

Often when trails overlap roads out of necessity, the trails will run parallel with roads. Sometime the trails will be just off the road in the woods, occasionally using a short section of asphalt as a bridge or to link the actual hiking trail. So when I looked at the maps for these areas, I didn’t think anything of the route following along the roads. However, in this case the roads are the trail. Make no mistake here, there is no hiking “trail.” You will be walking along the roadway. For miles. There are short sections of wooded hiking trails used to link the miles of roads these routes claims to be. Out of the 34 miles these two sections make up, there is only like about 5 miles of what most people would call actual hiking trails. There is a statement included on the back of the Eutaw Springs map which states:

“Much of this trail uses rural highways and dirt roads. You should prepare for possibility of unleashed dogs and wear bright clothing (and reflectors) to warn drivers. The spur trail is occasionally wet and muddy”

I can honestly say, it’s an understated but accurate statement. I drove from the start of the Eutaw Springs Passage to mile 7 before I could find where any of the “trail” left the road for a walk in the woods. The trail section from mile 7 to 9 is a wooded trail. Radar and I hiked this in and back, enjoying a light trail side lunch. At mile 9 the wooded trail yields again to more paved road. Once we got back to the car, we drove most of the remaining route trying to identify any remaining wooded trails. Absolutely much of the roadway travels through rural neighborhoods and communities on the southwest side of Lake Marion. To call some of the houses, trailers, and buildings along this section of trail “rustic” might be a bit too generous. It looks like from mile 10.5 to 12.2 is another wooded trail section joining roads. Fedcon Road (miles 12.5 to 17) is a deceiving dirt road which was impassable somewhere around mile 15 due to really heavy deep mud ruts. There was a pick-up truck with an older guy and his hound dog, traveling ahead of us, which ended high-centered and stuck. I tried to help push him out but we ended up turning around in my car and taking him and his pup back to his home so he could get a wrecker to extract his truck from the mud.

I would not recommend hiking any of this section in the summer as you will be out on the open road and under the sun 90% of the time. And I wouldn’t hike if it’s rained recently. While most of the roads will be fine, any actual hiking trail will likely be wet and or muddy. The Rocks Pond camp ground (about a mile down campground road from mile 13) is mostly RV sites but likely has some tent sites as well. The other camp site on the trail (about mile 18.5) we didn’t make due to helping out the stuck truck, but looks like it’s on the only other section of wooded trail. We explored the Santee Passage section and it’s virtually all roadway with no designated camping.

The one really cool place to visit is in Eutaw Springs. Located just past a turn in the trail/road is the American Revolutionary War era Eutaw Springs Battlefield. This was one of the last major engagement of the war in the Carolina’s, both sides claimed victory. We forget sometimes, how old our country is and the sacrifices our forefathers made to create a new nation. Definitely worth stopping, walking, and reading the self guided interpretive signs around the battleground.

Favorite Time of year: Maybe the Spring and fall (low bug time) for camping when its cool and dry.

Things to Know: You will be traveling on public roads most of these two trail sections. Pick a day with good cloud cover and use a good sunscreen.

Camping: RV and tent camping is available at Rocks Pond Campground, trail side primitive camping around mile 18.5 on the Eutaw Springs Section. There is no designated camping in the Santee Passage Section.

Pet friendly: There are no known restrictions on the trail but I would keep on leash while on the roadways. Watch for unleashed local dogs.

Getting There: The Eutaw Springs Section starts at the Diversion Canal, about an hours drive from the Charleston area. Good luck.

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2019 Palmetto Challenge

He doesn’t know yet …

I signed us up for the 2019 Palmetto Trail Challenge and Radar is going to be my plus one. He just doesn’t know it yet.

This 48 day event is hosted by the Palmetto Conservation Foundation (PCF) and is intended to inspire teams to hike or bike as many miles as possible between March 11 and April 28 “on the state’s trails, greenways, sidewalks, and hallways” (yes, they said hallways).

This is great motivation to get out and hike more. I needed some trail time to help me prepare for this summer’s Appalachian Trail section hike with our volunteer group this summer. I’ve been doing fair amount of daily walking (along with other fitness stuff) around the neighborhood, but I want to get out more and see some of the local trails too. The challenge sounds kind of open ended if it includes “hallways” but I intend to use the challenge to close some of the trail section gaps I have in the Palmetto Trail, as well as hit the local trails around me. For Radar, he loves taking walks and hikes with me. He regularly walks with me in the neighborhood and we have done a couple day hikes in state parks like Lee and Croft, he has been a really great trail partner. With this challenge I hope to include at least one overnighter with him. I fully expect to work him (and me) up to both our longer hikes and our first over night camping experience. This should be a great learning experience for both of us. I’m excited for him. He just doesn’t know it yet but he’ll be excited too.

Radar sporting his Ruffwear day pack
Radar Radar sporting his Ruffwear day pack

So, whats a challenge without a goal? I’m going to put 200 miles on the table as our goal. We’ll see. I thing it’s obtainable with enough stretch to be motivating. But I’m not including any hallways.

Each week the teams send in their prior week total mileage, it gets recorded and displayed on the PCF website to help motivate the other teams. It seems last years participants hiked 8,000 mikes. If you are interested in taking up the challenge, then March 4th (noon) is the last day to register!

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Good News for South Carolina State Parks!

But why isn’t this it’s own news story?

In today’s local paper, it was reported state tourism is at record levels “marking six years of consecutive record-breaking growth for the state’s visitor industry” according to the Post and Courier. Buried about half way through the article was a couple paragraphs indicating the state park system has “become almost entirely self-sufficient.”

Traveling across the country, I’ve often camped at parks. They are a welcome change from the commercial overcrowded main-stream lodging options. I love state and federal parks, there is so much hidden beauty and history in them. When I first moved to South Carolina over twenty years ago, it was readily apparent the states parks were under funded and under maintained. Kind of like a well worn deck of playing cards, a bit worn around the edges. Heck, some were out right in horrible shape. Colleton State Park was little more than a gate with a dirt road to the river front. Today it’s a little gem in the South Carolina crown of park jewels. This rise from the dust didn’t happen overnight and improvements across the state seem to be ongoing. A lot of hard work by dedicated park rangers have elevated each park from dependency to independence.

Having a park system which is paying their own way is a huge plus-up for the state. With over $30 million in park revenue last year they are just about paying their own way now and still improving. The powers that be are to be commended for the long hard trail to self-sufficiency they have been hiking. Support your local parks system, Come Out & Play!

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It’s a WIN!

The headlines of the Chicago Tribune read “Senate backs biggest conservation bill in a decade, protecting millions of acres of land and adding four national monuments”. This is great news not just for the outdoors folks but really for all Americans and here is why.

This is one of the biggest outdoor conservation bills in a long time and it looks like it’s been done right. While the bill still needs to make it through the House and then be signed by the President, this bill has an impact in just about every state of the nation and when signed, will have a positive and lasting impact for a long time to come.

The Senate, working together, in a seemingly and sometimes rare bipartisan manner, passed S.47 – Natural Resources Act. The bill is to protect millions of acres of land, hundreds of miles of wild rivers, and establishing four new national monuments. Legally, by congress coming together to pass federal legislation. This is hugely important to the outdoor community and should be as important to everyone. The outdoor community at first was celebratory with former President Obama’s executive orders declaring new areas as protected lands, then anguishing as current President Trump looked at undoing some of these “protected” areas. Many may have felt rightly upset, as if the outdoor conservation rug had been pulled out from under them.

This bill makes a giant step forward in cementing the protection of what Americans love about our lands. From wilderness area, to historical areas, to outdoor sports and activities we enjoy, this bill has something for just about any one who steps outside of their house. This new legislation is a huge win for everyone really. If you read the Tribune’s article, you get an idea of the magnitude of this piece of legislation. And unlike executive orders, bills like this will have the proper funding to go with it for park and program maintenance.

The value of this bill really struck home with me as I was reading over the introduction in Section 1 of the bill. One of the very first things I read was about the Crags Land Exchange to enhance the Pike’s National Forest and provide permanent trail easement. This is the side of Pikes Peak I climbed with my family. For me anyway, this is an amazing section of trail and land. The experience was something I will hold dear to me. If any of the rest of the areas or items in the bill are worth even a fraction of the Crags portion and my experience hiking there, then this bill is priceless in providing current and future generations with the best outdoor experience possible.

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Hiking South Carolina – Croft State Park

If you like the outdoors, then Croft State Park has something for you. From horses to bikes to hiking to boating to shooting sports, this park offers a heavy helping of fun for everyone and is another outstanding South Carolina destination to explore.

Located in the rolling, wooded terrain of the upstate, Croft has an amazing amount of trails within the park to explore. All the 50 miles of trails at Croft are open to hikers and include the 12.6 mile Croft Passage of the Palmetto Trail, almost 17 miles of trails for Mountain Bikes, and another 17 miles of horse trails. While my girlfriend rode the horse trails with her friends, Radar and I took a day and hiked just about 13 miles of various trails including 8.5 of the Palmetto Trail section. We barely scratched where we could go.

This park opened in 1949 and with 7054 acres, is the third largest in the South Carolina State Park system. Besides the hiking, biking, and horseback riding, this park is packed with other things to do too. There are about 190 acres between the two lakes which support fishing, boating, and bird watching. There are picnic shelters, a playground, and several geocaches are located on the park. This is also one of the few South Carolina Sate Parks with a shooting range (contact the park for more information).

Favorite Time of year: Anytime for camping.

Things to Know: Please speak to a park ranger before setting a geocache. Swimming is not permitted in the lake, but you may wade in the Fairforest Creek at your own risk of course.

Camping: Camping from RV to primitive is available at Croft. Call 1-866-345-PARK (or go here for reservations).

Pet friendly: Pets allowed in most outdoor areas but must be physical restraint or on a leash not longer than six feet.

Getting There: Croft is in the upstate of South Carolina, just 5 minutes South and East of Spartanburg, between I-26 and US-176. It’s about a 4 hour drive from the Charleston area.

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What to do when the magnetic North Moves on you?

In recent news, the earths magnetic north pole has moved. A lot. What does this mean for the hiker trying to find their way?

If you are planning to navigate with a magnetic compass, the first thing you need to know is the average amount of variation in your area. In parts of the country and world other than South Carolina, the variation may be more or less and can be to the East instead of West. In South Carolina the magnetic declination or variation is normally between 6 and 9 degrees (depending on where you are in the state) to the West. This means when you are holding a compass in your hand, the needle will actually be pointing about 6 to 9 degrees West of the earths true North pole, it’s pointing towards the earths magnetic North pole. To find the true North direction you have to add this westerly variation to your magnetic compass reading. Simple right? Maybe.

Some compasses include an adjustment setting for declination or
variation. This is great if all your navigation is typically in one area and you have a large amount of declination, greater than 10 degrees. you can make the adjustment for your area and the compass will indicate true North. Most maps will have some sort of compass rose which typically will point to true North and may also indicate magnetic North. You should always use the most recent maps available for your area.

While a lot depends on how far you are traveling, most hikers follow established trails. In these cases, the compass is an aid to make sure you are heading in the correct direction on the trail, or to simple help you get back on trail if you step off for a quick bathroom break of to explore a bit (of course you would need to take a bearing when you head off). If you are truly navigating open areas with long distances where a couple of extra degrees of error may matter, I would recommend augmenting the compass with GPS or other aids. With regards to the movement of the earths magnetic North, I wouldn’t worry about it too much, yet.

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Happy New Year!

I’m back in my proper time zone now, winding down 2018 with my girlfriend at the farm. Family is home and my daughter wished us a happy new year from the future (she is all the way in tomorrow). The clock is slowly ticking down the remaining hours and minutes of 2018.

Tick.

Tock.

I am looking forward to seeing what the new year brings. I am trying not to pre-build expectations, but as we transition from one year to the next, there is much to be thankful for. The ones we love and care about most are topping my list. 2019 will come no mater what, and like every dawn, new opportunities will present if you watch for them.

Sometimes, when hiking, the trail is so hard, my focus is just on the next step. Then the next step. Then the next step. Until I can catch my breath and start looking about at what is around me. This is when I am in awe of the world, when cresting a ridge, the view relieved, you realize the wonder, presented to you.

I wish everyone a wonderful and glorious new year, may the trail you taking, be amazing.

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