Every Bit The Journey

The journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step, and this is mine.

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Congaree NP Entrance Sign

Hiking South Carolina – Congaree National Park

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On May 14, 2019

In 2019 Palmetto Challenge, Canoe, Hiking & Camping in South Carolina, National Parks, SC State Parks, Travel

Radar and I hit the boardwalks of the Congaree National Park as part of our Palmetto Challenge and we were not disappointed. The last time I had visited the Congaree swamp area, it was the Congaree Swamp National Monument. There was just a basic visitor center, a few hundred feet of boardwalk, and an open field designated for camping. Congress did a great thing in 2003 when they re-designated the monument as the Congaree National Park.

Conagree NP Boardwalk Trails
Congaree NP Campsite

Many improvements have been made as a result of the national park (NP) designation. The campsites have been upgraded to actual real designated camp sites with central latrines. There is paved parking and a new, much larger, visitor center which explains the history and importance of the entire Congaree basin. It’s here you can also pick up the map and narrative for the Self-guided Boardwalk Tour, which Radar and I did at the start of our walk. The best part of the the park improvements are expansion of the boardwalks and trails. There are almost two and a half miles of boardwalks with dozens of miles of foot trails winding deep through the rich swamp.

Conagree NP Low Boardwalk Trail
Conagree NP Low Boardwalk Trail with Radar
Conagree NP Flooded Swamp

On the day of our visit, the weather was perfect. The trees were in their spring green and their high 130 foot canopy providing wonderful shade and a cool breeze. The river water however was elevated at just over 8 feet, and as part of the natural flood cycle, almost all of the low trails were underwater including a portion of the low boardwalk. We walked the low boardwalk out about a half mile to where the flooding waters took over. We stood at the waters edge and watched the water slowly making it’s way through the trees around us. It was kind of magical to be able to stand in the middle of a flooded, flowing swamp. We backtracked and followed the elevated boardwalk out to Weston Lake and then a little past where one of the trails intersected the boardwalk. The floodwaters prevented us from looping any of the trails this day, but we had a great time exploring anyway.

Conagree NP Elevated Boardwalk Trail
Conagree NP Elevated Boardwalk Trail with Radar
Conagree NP High Canopy & Old Growth Trees
Congaree NP Low Boardwalk Trail

This park offers some great opportunities to explore a rare old growth forest, either afoot or afloat. You can hike deep in to the park on the River & Kingsnake trails. if you like paddling, you can take some amazing float trips through the swamp via canoe or kayak on Cedar Creeks and along the Congaree River itself. My first couple canoe trips in South Carolina were centered around the Congaree River and Swamp. My family and I canoed a very memorable 48 miles of the Congaree River, camping in the wilderness on the banks of the Congaree Park (National Monument at the time). The following month, I led a weekend canoe trek with my scout troop starting on Cedar Creek in the swamp and making our way out on to the Congaree River, again camping in the wilderness. Both trips were adventures in exploration of a wilderness not likely to be found anywhere else.

Conagree NP Weston Lake
Conagree NP Weston Lake

As the largest remaining tract of old-growth bottom-land hardwood forest in North America, the Congaree National Park is a must-visit if you ever find yourself in the area.

Congaree National Park (120′) | SC 48 (Bluff Road) | Richland Co. | Hopkins, SC | 16 April 2019 | 6 miles | 106′ gain | Easy

Favorite Time of year: Spring and fall for camping.

Things to Know: Check the water levels prior to going, you can call or check the river gauges here. Please speak to a park ranger before setting a geocache.

Camping: You need a prepaid reservation for front-country campgrounds, you can make reservations through Recreation.gov or by calling 1-877-444-6777. Back-country camping is allowed please the the Camping page of the NP site for details.

Pet friendly: Pets allowed in most outdoor areas but must be physical restraint or on a leash not longer than six feet. Be respectful of others on the boardwalks.

Getting There: Congaree NP is in the midlands of South Carolina, just South of Columbia about 30 miles, East of I-26 and South of I-77, just off Old Bluff Road. It’s about an hours drive from the Charleston area.

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Roan High Knob Survey Marker

A new adventure in the Southern Sixers

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On April 24, 2019

In Life, life events, Travel

A couple years ago and for a lot of different reasons, I had set and completed the goal of climbing Pikes Peak in Colorado and was able to successfully “bag” my first Fourteener. It was only after I had set my Pikes Peak goal, I learned climbing mountains over 14,000 feet is a thing. Especially in Colorado since they have something like 53 of these beasts. I feel like I would like to try some more of them, maybe, but I would probably need to live in Colorado.

Just this week however, I learned of something called the “Southern Sixers.” These are the tallest mountains in the eastern United States which are all over 6,000 feet. All (besides New Hampshire’s Mount Washington) are in and around the Appalachian mountains of North Carolina and Tennessee. “Wow,” I thought, they sound close to home, maybe I could hike a couple of them. I did a little research, pulled up the list of mountains, and noticed a bunch of very familiar names. Low and behold, it looks like I’ve already hit about a quarter of them!

Now it’s time to start planning to bag the rest of them.

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Eutaw Springs Passage of the Palmetto Trail

South Carolina – Eutaw Springs & Santee Passages

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On April 3, 2019

In 2019 Palmetto Challenge, Hiking & Camping in South Carolina, Travel

Are you looking for a nice +20 or 30 mile section of trail to take you through shaded woods and rolling meadows to see nature while you hike or backpack? Possibly a secluded camp overnight? Then these two sections of the Palmetto Trail are not for you.

The Eutaw Springs Passage is a 21.3 mile section and the Santee Passage is a 12.7 mile section of the Palmetto Trail bridging the end of the Lake Moultrie Passage to the south and the Lake Marion Passage to the north. I selected both of these sections to explore and hike with Radar as part of our Palmetto Challenge mileage. Boy was I surprised.

Often when trails overlap roads out of necessity, the trails will run parallel with roads. Sometime the trails will be just off the road in the woods, occasionally using a short section of asphalt as a bridge or to link the actual hiking trail. So when I looked at the maps for these areas, I didn’t think anything of the route following along the roads. However, in this case the roads are the trail. Make no mistake here, there is no hiking “trail.” You will be walking along the roadway. For miles. There are short sections of wooded hiking trails used to link the miles of roads these routes claims to be. Out of the 34 miles these two sections make up, there is only like about 5 miles of what most people would call actual hiking trails. There is a statement included on the back of the Eutaw Springs map which states:

“Much of this trail uses rural highways and dirt roads. You should prepare for possibility of unleashed dogs and wear bright clothing (and reflectors) to warn drivers. The spur trail is occasionally wet and muddy”

Eutaw Springs Passage of the Palmetto Trail
Eutaw Springs Passage of the Palmetto Trail

I can honestly say, it’s an understated but accurate statement. I drove from the start of the Eutaw Springs Passage to mile 7 before I could find where any of the “trail” left the road for a walk in the woods. The trail section from mile 7 to 9 is a wooded trail. Radar and I hiked this in and back, enjoying a light trail side lunch. At mile 9 the wooded trail yields again to more paved road. Once we got back to the car, we drove most of the remaining route trying to identify any remaining wooded trails. Absolutely much of the roadway travels through rural neighborhoods and communities on the southwest side of Lake Marion. To call some of the houses, trailers, and buildings along this section of trail “rustic” might be a bit too generous. It looks like from mile 10.5 to 12.2 is another wooded trail section joining roads. Fedcon Road (miles 12.5 to 17) is a deceiving dirt road which was impassable somewhere around mile 15 due to really heavy deep mud ruts. There was a pick-up truck with an older guy and his hound dog, traveling ahead of us, which ended high-centered and stuck. I tried to help push him out but we ended up turning around in my car and taking him and his pup back to his home so he could get a wrecker to extract his truck from the mud.

Eutaw Springs Passage of the Palmetto Trail, between mile markers 7 & 9
Eutaw Springs Passage of the Palmetto Trail, between mile markers 7 & 9
Eutaw Springs Passage of the Palmetto Trail, at mile marker 7
Eutaw Springs Passage of the Palmetto Trail, near mile marker 9

I would not recommend hiking any of this section in the summer as you will be out on the open road and under the sun 90% of the time. And I wouldn’t hike if it’s rained recently. While most of the roads will be fine, any actual hiking trail will likely be wet and or muddy. The Rocks Pond camp ground (about a mile down campground road from mile 13) is mostly RV sites but likely has some tent sites as well. The other camp site on the trail (about mile 18.5) we didn’t make due to helping out the stuck truck, but looks like it’s on the only other section of wooded trail. We explored the Santee Passage section and it’s virtually all roadway with no designated camping.

Eutaw Springs Battlefield
Eutaw Springs Battlefield
Eutaw Springs Battlefield

The one really cool place to visit is in Eutaw Springs. Located just past a turn in the trail/road is the American Revolutionary War era Eutaw Springs Battlefield. This was one of the last major engagement of the war in the Carolina’s, both sides claimed victory. We forget sometimes, how old our country is and the sacrifices our forefathers made to create a new nation. Definitely worth stopping, walking, and reading the self guided interpretive signs around the battleground.

Favorite Time of year: Maybe the Spring and fall (low bug time) for camping when its cool and dry.

Things to Know: You will be traveling on public roads most of these two trail sections. Pick a day with good cloud cover and use a good sunscreen.

Camping: RV and tent camping is available at Rocks Pond Campground, trail side primitive camping around mile 18.5 on the Eutaw Springs Section. There is no designated camping in the Santee Passage Section.

Pet friendly: There are no known restrictions on the trail but I would keep on leash while on the roadways. Watch for unleashed local dogs.

Getting There: The Eutaw Springs Section starts at the Diversion Canal, about an hours drive from the Charleston area. Good luck.

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2019 Palmetto Challenge

He doesn’t know yet …

By

On March 3, 2019

In 2019 Palmetto Challenge, Hiking & Camping in South Carolina, SC State Parks, Travel

I signed us up for the 2019 Palmetto Trail Challenge and Radar is going to be my plus one. He just doesn’t know it yet.

This 48 day event is hosted by the Palmetto Conservation Foundation (PCF) and is intended to inspire teams to hike or bike as many miles as possible between March 11 and April 28 “on the state’s trails, greenways, sidewalks, and hallways” (yes, they said hallways).

This is great motivation to get out and hike more. I needed some trail time to help me prepare for this summer’s Appalachian Trail section hike with our volunteer group this summer. I’ve been doing fair amount of daily walking (along with other fitness stuff) around the neighborhood, but I want to get out more and see some of the local trails too. The challenge sounds kind of open ended if it includes “hallways” but I intend to use the challenge to close some of the trail section gaps I have in the Palmetto Trail, as well as hit the local trails around me. For Radar, he loves taking walks and hikes with me. He regularly walks with me in the neighborhood and we have done a couple day hikes in state parks like Lee and Croft, he has been a really great trail partner. With this challenge I hope to include at least one overnighter with him. I fully expect to work him (and me) up to both our longer hikes and our first over night camping experience. This should be a great learning experience for both of us. I’m excited for him. He just doesn’t know it yet but he’ll be excited too.

Radar sporting his Ruffwear day pack
Radar Radar sporting his Ruffwear day pack

So, whats a challenge without a goal? I’m going to put 200 miles on the table as our goal. We’ll see. I thing it’s obtainable with enough stretch to be motivating. But I’m not including any hallways.

Each week the teams send in their prior week total mileage, it gets recorded and displayed on the PCF website to help motivate the other teams. It seems last years participants hiked 8,000 mikes. If you are interested in taking up the challenge, then March 4th (noon) is the last day to register!

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Good News for South Carolina State Parks!

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On February 20, 2019

In Canoe, Hiking & Camping in South Carolina, SC State Parks, Travel

But why isn’t this it’s own news story?

In today’s local paper, it was reported state tourism is at record levels “marking six years of consecutive record-breaking growth for the state’s visitor industry” according to the Post and Courier. Buried about half way through the article was a couple paragraphs indicating the state park system has “become almost entirely self-sufficient.”

Traveling across the country, I’ve often camped at parks. They are a welcome change from the commercial overcrowded main-stream lodging options. I love state and federal parks, there is so much hidden beauty and history in them. When I first moved to South Carolina over twenty years ago, it was readily apparent the states parks were under funded and under maintained. Kind of like a well worn deck of playing cards, a bit worn around the edges. Heck, some were out right in horrible shape. Colleton State Park was little more than a gate with a dirt road to the river front. Today it’s a little gem in the South Carolina crown of park jewels. This rise from the dust didn’t happen overnight and improvements across the state seem to be ongoing. A lot of hard work by dedicated park rangers have elevated each park from dependency to independence.

Having a park system which is paying their own way is a huge plus-up for the state. With over $30 million in park revenue last year they are just about paying their own way now and still improving. The powers that be are to be commended for the long hard trail to self-sufficiency they have been hiking. Support your local parks system, Come Out & Play!

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It’s a WIN!

By

On February 13, 2019

In Life, National Parks, Travel

The headlines of the Chicago Tribune read “Senate backs biggest conservation bill in a decade, protecting millions of acres of land and adding four national monuments”. This is great news not just for the outdoors folks but really for all Americans and here is why.

This is one of the biggest outdoor conservation bills in a long time and it looks like it’s been done right. While the bill still needs to make it through the House and then be signed by the President, this bill has an impact in just about every state of the nation and when signed, will have a positive and lasting impact for a long time to come.

The Senate, working together, in a seemingly and sometimes rare bipartisan manner, passed S.47 – Natural Resources Act. The bill is to protect millions of acres of land, hundreds of miles of wild rivers, and establishing four new national monuments. Legally, by congress coming together to pass federal legislation. This is hugely important to the outdoor community and should be as important to everyone. The outdoor community at first was celebratory with former President Obama’s executive orders declaring new areas as protected lands, then anguishing as current President Trump looked at undoing some of these “protected” areas. Many may have felt rightly upset, as if the outdoor conservation rug had been pulled out from under them.

This bill makes a giant step forward in cementing the protection of what Americans love about our lands. From wilderness area, to historical areas, to outdoor sports and activities we enjoy, this bill has something for just about any one who steps outside of their house. This new legislation is a huge win for everyone really. If you read the Tribune’s article, you get an idea of the magnitude of this piece of legislation. And unlike executive orders, bills like this will have the proper funding to go with it for park and program maintenance.

  • Hiking back down from Pike’s Peak into the forest
  • A view down from Pike’s Peak with the boulder field in the foreground
  • The tundra along the trail to Pikes Peak
    The tundra along the trail to Pikes Peak
  • Pikes Peak
    Pikes Peak
  • The new 14er hikers, all finished safe and mostly sound
    The new 14er hikers, all finished safe and mostly sound

The value of this bill really struck home with me as I was reading over the introduction in Section 1 of the bill. One of the very first things I read was about the Crags Land Exchange to enhance the Pike’s National Forest and provide permanent trail easement. This is the side of Pikes Peak I climbed with my family. For me anyway, this is an amazing section of trail and land. The experience was something I will hold dear to me. If any of the rest of the areas or items in the bill are worth even a fraction of the Crags portion and my experience hiking there, then this bill is priceless in providing current and future generations with the best outdoor experience possible.

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Hiking South Carolina – Croft State Park

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On January 29, 2019

In Canoe, Hiking & Camping in South Carolina, Life, SC State Parks, Travel, Uncategorized

If you like the outdoors, then Croft State Park has something for you. From horses to bikes to hiking to boating to shooting sports, this park offers a heavy helping of fun for everyone and is another outstanding South Carolina destination to explore.

Located in the rolling, wooded terrain of the upstate, Croft has an amazing amount of trails within the park to explore. All the 50 miles of trails at Croft are open to hikers and include the 12.6 mile Croft Passage of the Palmetto Trail, almost 17 miles of trails for Mountain Bikes, and another 17 miles of horse trails. While my girlfriend rode the horse trails with her friends, Radar and I took a day and hiked just about 13 miles of various trails including 8.5 of the Palmetto Trail section. We barely scratched where we could go.

This park opened in 1949 and with 7054 acres, is the third largest in the South Carolina State Park system. Besides the hiking, biking, and horseback riding, this park is packed with other things to do too. There are about 190 acres between the two lakes which support fishing, boating, and bird watching. There are picnic shelters, a playground, and several geocaches are located on the park. This is also one of the few South Carolina Sate Parks with a shooting range (contact the park for more information).

Favorite Time of year: Anytime for camping.

Things to Know: Please speak to a park ranger before setting a geocache. Swimming is not permitted in the lake, but you may wade in the Fairforest Creek at your own risk of course.

Camping: Camping from RV to primitive is available at Croft. Call 1-866-345-PARK (or go here for reservations).

Pet friendly: Pets allowed in most outdoor areas but must be physical restraint or on a leash not longer than six feet.

Getting There: Croft is in the upstate of South Carolina, just 5 minutes South and East of Spartanburg, between I-26 and US-176. It’s about a 4 hour drive from the Charleston area.

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What to do when the magnetic North Moves on you?

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On January 18, 2019

In Hiking & Camping in South Carolina, Life, Outdoor Tips, Skills, Travel

In recent news, the earths magnetic north pole has moved. A lot. What does this mean for the hiker trying to find their way?

If you are planning to navigate with a magnetic compass, the first thing you need to know is the average amount of variation in your area. In parts of the country and world other than South Carolina, the variation may be more or less and can be to the East instead of West. In South Carolina the magnetic declination or variation is normally between 6 and 9 degrees (depending on where you are in the state) to the West. This means when you are holding a compass in your hand, the needle will actually be pointing about 6 to 9 degrees West of the earths true North pole, it’s pointing towards the earths magnetic North pole. To find the true North direction you have to add this westerly variation to your magnetic compass reading. Simple right? Maybe.

Some compasses include an adjustment setting for declination or
variation. This is great if all your navigation is typically in one area and you have a large amount of declination, greater than 10 degrees. you can make the adjustment for your area and the compass will indicate true North. Most maps will have some sort of compass rose which typically will point to true North and may also indicate magnetic North. You should always use the most recent maps available for your area.

While a lot depends on how far you are traveling, most hikers follow established trails. In these cases, the compass is an aid to make sure you are heading in the correct direction on the trail, or to simple help you get back on trail if you step off for a quick bathroom break of to explore a bit (of course you would need to take a bearing when you head off). If you are truly navigating open areas with long distances where a couple of extra degrees of error may matter, I would recommend augmenting the compass with GPS or other aids. With regards to the movement of the earths magnetic North, I wouldn’t worry about it too much, yet.

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Happy New Year!

By

On December 31, 2018

In Life, life events, Travel

I’m back in my proper time zone now, winding down 2018 with my girlfriend at the farm. Family is home and my daughter wished us a happy new year from the future (she is all the way in tomorrow). The clock is slowly ticking down the remaining hours and minutes of 2018.

Tick.

Tock.

I am looking forward to seeing what the new year brings. I am trying not to pre-build expectations, but as we transition from one year to the next, there is much to be thankful for. The ones we love and care about most are topping my list. 2019 will come no mater what, and like every dawn, new opportunities will present if you watch for them.

Sometimes, when hiking, the trail is so hard, my focus is just on the next step. Then the next step. Then the next step. Until I can catch my breath and start looking about at what is around me. This is when I am in awe of the world, when cresting a ridge, the view relieved, you realize the wonder, presented to you.

I wish everyone a wonderful and glorious new year, may the trail you taking, be amazing.

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International time traveler and other recent discoveries (part 2)

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On December 23, 2018

In Life, life events, Travel, Uncategorized

I’ve been in Okinawa visiting with my daughter and her family for just over a week now. They have been stationed here since the spring. I haven’t seen her or my granddaughter in a while, so a quick visit before Christmas seemed like a good idea. I have seen some pretty “cool” and amazing things. Things like, they have food on conveyor belts, and you just eat as much and whatever you want. You don’t even need talk to a person to order anything. Kind of a point and click situation. That works really well here because they don’t speak English and I don’t speak Japanese (or Okinawan).

Note to self: must work on the language thing next time when time traveling.

Since coming here to Okinawa, I have spent time discovering and learning a little about the island. With my daughter as guide, we visited some historic places, a little bit of traveling back in time if you will. We visited the Urasoe castle ruins at Kakau ridge (Hacksaw ridge) and the Shurijo castle, site of the former Japanese Naval underground HQ. During the second world war, great battles were fought at these sites. Okinawa has a deep history of it’s own right, which unfortunately, has been clouded some with the events of the last world war. It was quite thought provoking, to visit these ancient castle sites and battlefield memorials in a country where they didn’t win. To see how they wrote the history of what happened, humanizes this opponent from long ago. For me I developed a better understanding of the differences between the two cultures of Imperial Japan and Okinawa. It offers a bit of historical insight you can’t find in a book. It’s sad to think of all of the lost lives when the world degrades to total war. Sigh.

We even climbed a mountain, Mt. Katsu Dake. While not the highest point in Okinawa, Mt. Katsu Dake is an honest climb and provides absolutely amazing 360 degree views of the island. I’m told way better viewing than some of the taller peaks (due to the vegetation). Well worth the trip up, but bring plenty of water and solid hiking shoes. The rocks are both treacherously slick and razor sharp, makes for an interesting combination. Ri, my daughters family dog, had worn pup boots which were totally appropriate for the rock climbing over lava rocks.

We did some of the normal tourist things too with shopping and eating. It was fun exploring the shops and trying different foods and tastes. I like food and flavors. The Okinawa people are some of the nicest and most polite people I have ever met and truly a pleasure to interact with. The cars are little here. It’s okay because they just seem to fit. Most of the cars are small compact cars, but they do have the equivalent of some US cars like the Cube and Toyota’s but they all have little tires which make them seem smaller. Oh and they drive on the “wrong” side of the road. As a new passenger, it’s best to not try to pay attention to traffic, let the driver drive, and just enjoy the scenery. Strangely there is no wood (very little) to speak of on the island, so everything is made of cement, even the wood is made of cement here. The “logs” used in the hiking trail and for railings and fences, they are all cement with a faux wood finish. The houses are smaller here. And concrete. almost all buildings are concrete, concrete block, or some combination. A wood frame house is not a thing on this island. There are some small farms. Most seem little more than communal garden plots really, probably local produce. The locals grow small crops and raise a few cows (probably dairy?). I watched a farmer cutting hay. By hand. And then fork into the back of a little truck. The hay field was less than a half acre. I went to a beach with my daughter and granddaughter and watched the sun rise. Sometime around 1992, I touched the eastern side of Pacific Ocean. This week I touched the western side of the Pacific too.

I do like traveling and exploring. Traveling half way around the world however can be a kick in the head, but once you arrive and get settled, the key is to enjoy. I’m actually on the return trip to home now, in a lay-over in Taiwan. I’m waiting for the big time travel hop to New York. I actually take off from here at about 5:30 pm on 12/23 and land in New York 7:15 pm on 12/23 (I know it’s really like a 15 hour flight). Anyway, the best part of this whole far east adventure was really getting to see my daughter and spend a little bit of time with family. I’m heading home now for Christmas with my girlfriend and the some of the rest of my family. I can’t wait until we can all together again in one country. I love you all.

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