The journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step, and this is mine.

Montana Mountains

Author: Every bit the journey Page 5 of 11

A traveler, adventurer, outdoors-man, International Time Traveler, and a guide to making it happen. Based in South Carolina, I am an experience camper and hiker with a love of the outdoors. I've been camping, hiking, and paddling here for over 20 years, teaching, training and learning as I go.

Roan High Knob Survey Marker

A new adventure in the Southern Sixers

A couple years ago and for a lot of different reasons, I had set and completed the goal of climbing Pikes Peak in Colorado and was able to successfully “bag” my first Fourteener. It was only after I had set my Pikes Peak goal, I learned climbing mountains over 14,000 feet is a thing. Especially in Colorado since they have something like 53 of these beasts. I feel like I would like to try some more of them, maybe, but I would probably need to live in Colorado.

Just this week however, I learned of something called the “Southern Sixers.” These are the tallest mountains in the eastern United States which are all over 6,000 feet. All (besides New Hampshire’s Mount Washington) are in and around the Appalachian mountains of North Carolina and Tennessee. “Wow,” I thought, they sound close to home, maybe I could hike a couple of them. I did a little research, pulled up the list of mountains, and noticed a bunch of very familiar names. Low and behold, it looks like I’ve already hit about a quarter of them!

Now it’s time to start planning to bag the rest of them.

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Outdoor Tips – Headlamps

Are you looking for a new or replacement headlamp but not sure what to get? Between styles, cost, weight, lumens, batteries, different settings etc. It can get really confusing. Check out this headlamp guide from REI, it’s a great resource to help sift through some of the jargon. Whatever you settle on, consider a headlamp which uses common (AA or AAA) batteries. My headlamp uses AAA’s and I can a long time between needing to re-battery. A few years ago, while section hiking a part of the Appalachian Trail, I met a fellow hiker in the Nantahala Outdoor Center gear store. He was very frustrated, his “fancy” headlamp used special button batteries and of course the batteries had died several days prior. He had dropped off trail a couple times trying to find new button batteries with No-Joy, he couldn’t find replacement batteries anywhere and finally ended up just buying a new headlamp. Increasing your gear reliability and supportability will help save yourself some miles of future frustrations.

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Columbia Glacier in Alaska; glaciers in Alaska are currently contributing the most of glaciers worldwide to sea level rise. David McNew / Getty Images

Melting ice and some random thoughts about our environment

Here’s a frigging idea. Maybe it’s not the ice melting (which has recently been reported are re-freezing)? Follow along, please.

I recently read an online article from EcoWatch which popped up in my news feed. The article indicated “glaciers lose about 335 billion tons of ice a year, the equivalent of one millimeter per year of sea level rise.” Curious, I explored this statement a bit. According to some quick math, 1 ton of ice equals about 264.5 gallons of water (I know it’s not as simple as this, but this is the internet, so we’ll run with it).

So, 335 billion tons of melting ice would be something crazy like adding 88.6 Trillion gallons of water a year to the oceans just to push the level up 1 mm. However our planet also has other things which “displace” water, like boats. These things would also have the effect of adding volume to the oceans and would also contribute to “sea level rise.” According to the 2018 e-Handbook of statistics, globally, we have a growing fleet of commercial (those over 1000t capacity) vessels in the neighborhood of 1.9 Billion tons, this would be the equivalent of an additional 502.6 Billion gallons of water added to the oceans. And trash also displaces water. According to the earth day folks, we add an estimated 8 Billion tons of plastic alone to the oceans, each year. This would be like pouring in an additional 2.1 Trillion gallons of water every year. if we’ve dumped at the same rate for the last 10 years, we’re at an additional 21.2 Trillion gallons and rising. And of course, our rate of “contribution” for plastics in the ocean is set to increase tenfold by 2020. And this doesn’t include all the other garbage we generously include, like
cruise ships pumping a billion gallons of sewage (that’s poop, feces, or sh*t for the layman) in to the ocean a year. We dump or pump untold quantities of junk into our oceans. Sadly.

I don’t dispute our climate can and does change. I don’t dispute we, as people, can have some level of influence on any possible change. I ‘m just not convinced melting ice is our problem. I do think our “problem” comes from an ironically deeper, darker place. A place where we keep disregarding the natural world around us. We keep reaching for those shinny brass rings on the bright loud carousel ride of life and not looking around. we’re distracted by the loud music and bright lights. I think we need to get the hell off the ride and leave the noise of the amusement park sometime. We need to walk in grass with bare feet. Look at the stars at night. Hike up a mountain sometime. Sit with the warmth of the sun on your body and smell clean air. Maybe then we’ll appreciate more, and take better care of, what our mother nature has given us.

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Eutaw Springs Passage of the Palmetto Trail

South Carolina – Eutaw Springs & Santee Passages

Are you looking for a nice +20 or 30 mile section of trail to take you through shaded woods and rolling meadows to see nature while you hike or backpack? Possibly a secluded camp overnight? Then these two sections of the Palmetto Trail are not for you.

The Eutaw Springs Passage is a 21.3 mile section and the Santee Passage is a 12.7 mile section of the Palmetto Trail bridging the end of the Lake Moultrie Passage to the south and the Lake Marion Passage to the north. I selected both of these sections to explore and hike with Radar as part of our Palmetto Challenge mileage. Boy was I surprised.

Often when trails overlap roads out of necessity, the trails will run parallel with roads. Sometime the trails will be just off the road in the woods, occasionally using a short section of asphalt as a bridge or to link the actual hiking trail. So when I looked at the maps for these areas, I didn’t think anything of the route following along the roads. However, in this case the roads are the trail. Make no mistake here, there is no hiking “trail.” You will be walking along the roadway. For miles. There are short sections of wooded hiking trails used to link the miles of roads these routes claims to be. Out of the 34 miles these two sections make up, there is only like about 5 miles of what most people would call actual hiking trails. There is a statement included on the back of the Eutaw Springs map which states:

“Much of this trail uses rural highways and dirt roads. You should prepare for possibility of unleashed dogs and wear bright clothing (and reflectors) to warn drivers. The spur trail is occasionally wet and muddy”

I can honestly say, it’s an understated but accurate statement. I drove from the start of the Eutaw Springs Passage to mile 7 before I could find where any of the “trail” left the road for a walk in the woods. The trail section from mile 7 to 9 is a wooded trail. Radar and I hiked this in and back, enjoying a light trail side lunch. At mile 9 the wooded trail yields again to more paved road. Once we got back to the car, we drove most of the remaining route trying to identify any remaining wooded trails. Absolutely much of the roadway travels through rural neighborhoods and communities on the southwest side of Lake Marion. To call some of the houses, trailers, and buildings along this section of trail “rustic” might be a bit too generous. It looks like from mile 10.5 to 12.2 is another wooded trail section joining roads. Fedcon Road (miles 12.5 to 17) is a deceiving dirt road which was impassable somewhere around mile 15 due to really heavy deep mud ruts. There was a pick-up truck with an older guy and his hound dog, traveling ahead of us, which ended high-centered and stuck. I tried to help push him out but we ended up turning around in my car and taking him and his pup back to his home so he could get a wrecker to extract his truck from the mud.

I would not recommend hiking any of this section in the summer as you will be out on the open road and under the sun 90% of the time. And I wouldn’t hike if it’s rained recently. While most of the roads will be fine, any actual hiking trail will likely be wet and or muddy. The Rocks Pond camp ground (about a mile down campground road from mile 13) is mostly RV sites but likely has some tent sites as well. The other camp site on the trail (about mile 18.5) we didn’t make due to helping out the stuck truck, but looks like it’s on the only other section of wooded trail. We explored the Santee Passage section and it’s virtually all roadway with no designated camping.

The one really cool place to visit is in Eutaw Springs. Located just past a turn in the trail/road is the American Revolutionary War era Eutaw Springs Battlefield. This was one of the last major engagement of the war in the Carolina’s, both sides claimed victory. We forget sometimes, how old our country is and the sacrifices our forefathers made to create a new nation. Definitely worth stopping, walking, and reading the self guided interpretive signs around the battleground.

Favorite Time of year: Maybe the Spring and fall (low bug time) for camping when its cool and dry.

Things to Know: You will be traveling on public roads most of these two trail sections. Pick a day with good cloud cover and use a good sunscreen.

Camping: RV and tent camping is available at Rocks Pond Campground, trail side primitive camping around mile 18.5 on the Eutaw Springs Section. There is no designated camping in the Santee Passage Section.

Pet friendly: There are no known restrictions on the trail but I would keep on leash while on the roadways. Watch for unleashed local dogs.

Getting There: The Eutaw Springs Section starts at the Diversion Canal, about an hours drive from the Charleston area. Good luck.

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Givhans Ferry State Park Entrance

Hiking South Carolina – Givhans Ferry State Park

Located on the high limestone bluff on a gentle bend in the Edisto River, Givhans Ferry State Park offers a relaxing place to sit and watch the river flow by.


Relax on the porch of the Riverfront Hall a popular spot for family gatherings
(from the SCSP web site).

Just 35 miles from downtown Charleston, Givhans Ferry has cabins, RV, and standard tent sites, as well as a primitive camping area. This park has the unique distinction of being located at the end of the 23-mile Edisto River kayak and canoe trail which begins upriver at Colleton State Park. The Edisto River is the longest free-flowing, blackwater river in North America. There is a really nice sand beach for wading and swimming along with a new integrated ramp for launching and recovery of canoes and kayaks making this a must do for paddle craft sports.

The bridge in Givhans Ferry State Park on the River Bluff Trail
The bridge in Givhans Ferry State Park on the River Bluff Trail

For hiking, Givhans has a fairly short 1.5 mile River Bluff trail in the main park, however if you cross the road at the park entrance you can pick up the 4.7 mile Old Loop Trail which winds around the perimeter of the largely undeveloped park boundary with woods on both sides. Radar and I took a day and hiked both the River bluff trail and then the Old Loop trail as one big loop, for just over 7.4 miles returning to where we started.

Hiking the Old Loop Trail with Radar
Hiking the Old Loop Trail with Radar

The park is located where there was a ferry crossing the river dating way back to the 1700’s. In the 1930’s, this was one of the original 16 South Carolina state parks built with the help of the Civilian Conservation Corps. The park consists of about 988 acres and offers swimming, fishing, boating, and bird watching. There are also picnic shelters, a playground, and several geocaches are located on the park.

On the bluff is a small grave for Mary E. Ford
On the bluff is a small grave for Mary E. Ford

Givhans Ferry State Park (123′) | County Rd S-18-30 |Ridgeville | Dorchester, SC | 11 March 2019 | 7.4 miles | 163′ gain | Moderate

Favorite Time of year: Spring and fall for camping.

Things to Know: Please speak to a park ranger before setting a geocache. Swimming is permitted in the Edisto River, but with no life guard, at your own risk of course.

Camping: Camping from RV to primitive is available at Givhans. go here for reservations or call (843) 873-0692.

Pet friendly: Pets allowed in most outdoor areas but must be physical restraint or on a leash not longer than six feet.

Getting There: Givhans is in the lowcountry of South Carolina, just East of Summerville, between I-95 and I-26, just off SC-61N. It’s about an hours drive from the Charleston area.

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Outdoor Tips – New Gear

Looking to upgrade or replace gear? Watch for sales.

I know, I know. This sounds like “duh, no kidding.” It’s tempting, but new camping – hiking – backpacking gear can be crazy expensive. If you want to sale a little money, be patient and spend some time figuring out what you’re really looking for in a particular item. There’s so much information available now you can compare features and pricing easily. Considering last years model may save you considerably on “new” gear. Expect to pay full retail price on the new gear when it first comes out. When the “latest and greatest” new gear does come out however, stores will often discount the old or last years model to move it to make room for the new. I had been thinking about a new backpack for some time but the packs I had been considering were several hundred dollars and I just couldn’t make the plunge. And as luck would have it, one day there was an ad, I did some quick research, and was able to pick up a name brand backpack for half price because it was last years model. The best part is it’s also half the weight of my old pack!

The bridge in Givhans Ferry State Park on the River Bluff Trail

And We’re Off and Hiking

It’s day 1 of the hiking challenge and our first hike is in the bag.

I signed Radar and myself up for the 2019 Palmetto Challenge a couple weeks ago and today was the start of the challenge. Basically, the Palmetto Conservation Foundation (the folks who administer the Palmetto Trail) is sponsoring Palmetto Challenge to “inspire teams to hike or bike as many miles as possible between March 11 and April 28”. So “We” signed up. I wasn’t sure at first if Radar’s miles would count with mine, or really how the miles would be counted in the teams. Then I received a confirmation email last week with all the rules and etc. information. The best line in it was “Teams that have registered a dog as their team mate will be counting the mileage done by the dog during the week the same as a human partner.” Woot woot, Radar’s as good as a human! He’ll be so happy to hear.

Radar taking a short break hiking the Givhans Ferry State Park trails
Radar taking a short break hiking the Givhans Ferry State Park trails

We did our first hike for record today at Givhans Ferry State Park (more on this park later). In some parts of our area the leaves and flowers are starting to pop. The park however was really still in it’s winter colors with very little signs of spring. And despite a recent rain last night, every thing had a light yellow pollen tint, which is typical for us this time of year. I was hoping to see more green and spring colors today but I know their coming. Anyway, the weather was great as we headed out. We started with the River Bluff Trail, then rolled over on to the Old Loop Trail, and finally making our way back to where we left the car, just ahead of the rain, covering just over 7.4 miles.

Radar normally talks me in to going with him for a walk either around the farm or for a couple miles down the road at least several times a week. For this challenge, I knew we needed more miles, so I started a list of local hikes to draw from as well. Somewhere on my list is an overnight trip on the Palmetto Trail. Unfortunately, I think we’ll be able to burn up the available local trails pretty quickly and may need to do some new trails in the up-state. But this Givhans hike was first on the list. Beginning next week you will be able to follow team progress here. It was nice to get out in the woods walking and I’m looking forward to more hikes with my team mate.

Givhans Ferry State Park (123′) | County Rd S-18-30 |Ridgeville | Dorchester, SC | 11 March 2019 | 7.4 miles | 163′ gain | Moderate

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Outdoor Tips – Seal It

There is little worse than being warmly huddled in a tent at 2 AM as the heavy rain starts, and there is a drip on your forehead. Except maybe waking up cold and wet to a flooded tent. Depending on how often you camp or use your gear, applying a fresh coat of waterproofing at the beginning of the season helps keep you happy when it rains.

The obvious item to hit is the tent rain fly, but also consider a healthy application of water proofing on other exposed tent fabric, backpacks, shoes, and even your rain gear. After several years of wear and tear and cleaning and washing, some of the original waterproofing may need a boost. Another useful tool in the weather proofing toolbox is seam sealer. Check the stitched seams for your rain fly’s and exposed tent seams for old or no sealer. It’s a huge help in stopping leaks where stitching pokes holes in the fabric. Apply as needed and of course follow the manufacture application instructions.

Checking your gear and applying fresh waterproofing and seam sealer (as needed) at the beginning of the camping season goes a long way toward extending the life of your tent and other gear, not to mention keeping have a dry place to go when the rains come.

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2019 Palmetto Challenge

He doesn’t know yet …

I signed us up for the 2019 Palmetto Trail Challenge and Radar is going to be my plus one. He just doesn’t know it yet.

This 48 day event is hosted by the Palmetto Conservation Foundation (PCF) and is intended to inspire teams to hike or bike as many miles as possible between March 11 and April 28 “on the state’s trails, greenways, sidewalks, and hallways” (yes, they said hallways).

This is great motivation to get out and hike more. I needed some trail time to help me prepare for this summer’s Appalachian Trail section hike with our volunteer group this summer. I’ve been doing fair amount of daily walking (along with other fitness stuff) around the neighborhood, but I want to get out more and see some of the local trails too. The challenge sounds kind of open ended if it includes “hallways” but I intend to use the challenge to close some of the trail section gaps I have in the Palmetto Trail, as well as hit the local trails around me. For Radar, he loves taking walks and hikes with me. He regularly walks with me in the neighborhood and we have done a couple day hikes in state parks like Lee and Croft, he has been a really great trail partner. With this challenge I hope to include at least one overnighter with him. I fully expect to work him (and me) up to both our longer hikes and our first over night camping experience. This should be a great learning experience for both of us. I’m excited for him. He just doesn’t know it yet but he’ll be excited too.

Radar sporting his Ruffwear day pack
Radar Radar sporting his Ruffwear day pack

So, whats a challenge without a goal? I’m going to put 200 miles on the table as our goal. We’ll see. I thing it’s obtainable with enough stretch to be motivating. But I’m not including any hallways.

Each week the teams send in their prior week total mileage, it gets recorded and displayed on the PCF website to help motivate the other teams. It seems last years participants hiked 8,000 mikes. If you are interested in taking up the challenge, then March 4th (noon) is the last day to register!

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Good News for South Carolina State Parks!

But why isn’t this it’s own news story?

In today’s local paper, it was reported state tourism is at record levels “marking six years of consecutive record-breaking growth for the state’s visitor industry” according to the Post and Courier. Buried about half way through the article was a couple paragraphs indicating the state park system has “become almost entirely self-sufficient.”

Traveling across the country, I’ve often camped at parks. They are a welcome change from the commercial overcrowded main-stream lodging options. I love state and federal parks, there is so much hidden beauty and history in them. When I first moved to South Carolina over twenty years ago, it was readily apparent the states parks were under funded and under maintained. Kind of like a well worn deck of playing cards, a bit worn around the edges. Heck, some were out right in horrible shape. Colleton State Park was little more than a gate with a dirt road to the river front. Today it’s a little gem in the South Carolina crown of park jewels. This rise from the dust didn’t happen overnight and improvements across the state seem to be ongoing. A lot of hard work by dedicated park rangers have elevated each park from dependency to independence.

Having a park system which is paying their own way is a huge plus-up for the state. With over $30 million in park revenue last year they are just about paying their own way now and still improving. The powers that be are to be commended for the long hard trail to self-sufficiency they have been hiking. Support your local parks system, Come Out & Play!

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