The journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step, and this is mine.

Montana Mountains

Author: Every bit the journey Page 11 of 12

A traveler, adventurer, outdoors-man, International Time Traveler, and a guide to making it happen. Based in South Carolina, I am an experience camper and hiker with a love of the outdoors. I've been camping, hiking, and paddling here for over 20 years, teaching, training and learning as I go.

Seven Falls practice hike

for our first full day in Colorado Springs

Today our big adventure is a practice hike at Broadmoor’s Seven Falls at the eastern edge of the Pike National Forest in the South Cheyenne Canyon area.

The thought of a practice hike is a great idea. It helps work out some of the kinks from traveling, shakes out the gear a bit, and makes you ask yourself “do I have everything I need?” It also helps when hiking with as new group to figure out each others pace and styles, and helps you ask yourself again “do I have everything I need?” I tend to pack a bit minimally and am always wondering if I have the right gear for the hike. 

The trail we picked to hike is a place called Seven Falls. It’s a relatively small privately owned park but the falls are spectacular. I learned later, the falls originally opened as an attraction in the early 1880’s. Most recently, when the property was severely damaged in a 2013 flood, it was purchased by a resort company and restored. They made a number of improvements and and reopened in 2015.  One of the improvements was to move visitor parking off site and provide a free shuttle service which reduces on site traffic congestion. The shuttle which picked us up and carried us to the park entrance. The shuttle and park services seemed well run, the park and trails were clean and well maintained. On the day of our visit there were probable several hundred people there coming and going while we were there, yet generally it didn’t seem crowded. there are several things to see and do and a number of trails to explore. We picked the longest hiking route we could, up to Inspiration Point. I think we would have hiked more if it hadn’t been for the rain.  

Once we ticketed in, the first part of our hike is an easy walk of just under a mile from the entrance to the base of falls at the head of the box canyon. As you follow South Cheyenne Creek to the falls there are several named rock outcroppings along the way, some as high as 1000 feet above the canyon floor. At the base of the falls there is and observation area around the collecting pool and a staircase to the top of the falls. The water fall cascades down several tiers, dropping 181 feet from the top. We climb the 244 steps in a set of open stair up to the top of the falls. This is the one time the place seemed a little crowded. The stairs are no wider than a normal stair maybe a couple feet wide (three feet tops) but open as in you can see the canyon and falls between the stair treads and between the handrails. It looks really cool, but can be a little “holy crap” about the time you realize it too late to quit. As you are ascending, gripping the hand rails, trying to not look down too much, focusing on the next step, there are people descending doing the same thing. and when passing each other, everyone wants to be in the center of the stairs. Fortunately we didn’t have the same problem later when we were descending, in the rain, and with the lightning. 

Once at the top of the falls there are a number of trails heading off in different directions, we picked the trail to Inspiration Point and hiked on. From the top of the falls you are in the 6800 foot elevation range. I think our original plan was to spend a few hours here hiking several of the trails here. Sometimes things don’t go quite the way you plan. Hiking out past the canyon Overlook point and to Inspiration Point is only a little better than a half mile has some nice honest inclines to get your heart rate up and sweat going. We reached the Overlook point and were provided with an awesome view of the canyon area and a peek of view looking over the city, you just know the view of Colorado Springs will be better at Inspiration Point, we can even see some approaching afternoon rains. We move on with purpose now knowing we may have a little less hiking time than previously planed.

Helen Hunt Jackson, 19th century poet and writer, was originally buried at Inspiration Point, reportedly it was one of her favorite spots to write, inspired by the views and beauty of the area. So of course, despite imminent rain and distant thunder, it makes perfect sense to get at least to her marker. Just as the rain started.

One of the reasons for a practice hike is to discover what gear works and what gear you don’t have. Like zip-lock bags. Sounds like a little thing, but they are really great for keeping things like cell phones and cameras dry in case of rain. That way you don’t need to use your rain shell to wrap up said cell phones and cameras to keep them dry, and I can wear my rain shell instead of my phone and camera.

The hike down went very well. We made good time. We paused at a shelter packed with people only long enough to allow the rain to increase a bit. The second shelter we passed was overflowing. At this point we are committed to hiking down off the mountain as purposefully as possible, with the occasional  not-so-far lightening and corresponding thunder clap motivating us along the way. Interestingly here, when we started this trek, our group was the only few people in the part with hiking poles, day packs of water & gear, hiking shoes, etc. so some of the comments overheard from passersby might have been less than complementary. The general exception was related to envious comments about hike poles during passing on the previously mentioned “nice honest inclines.” Now the huddles masses with Birkenstock sandals, sneakers, and no jackets or rain gear, had more complementary words as we hiked past. The hike down reached it’s most exciting period when we reached the open stairs. Metal open stairs. 244 wet steps of metal open stairs. They really weren’t too bad. at this point the rain was subsiding, and we were able to grip both sets of handrails without interruption all the way down to the base of the falls. Mission accomplished! down at the base level, it was now just a simple walk out to the shuttle and back to our car and then back to our cozy airbnb and warm showers.

The following days consist of drying out thoroughly soaked hiking shoes and making gear adjustments, like buying some zip-lock bags.  Overall an outstandingly memorable hike. Now on to bigger peaks.

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Arrived! (day 4)

It’s the final leg now, Grand Junction  to Colorado Springs. The highway winding up and through the mountains following the rivers, first the Colorado river, then the Eagle river, then Gore Creek.  the country side and mountain are gorgeous. Small alpine communities  sprinkled through the mountains. Ski lifts dot the mountain sides, running along the long ribbons of now green grass. Later when the snows fall you can imagine the slopes covered in snow and alive with skiers. Now the slopes are quite. all the activity is in the river snaking its way through the mountains. River rafters and fishermen abound. As we descend from the mountains as we approach Denver, and its associated urban civilization. The mountains give way to the plains as we turn southerly toward our destination, Colorado springs. It’s misty and rainy as we arrive at our airbnb, the mountain peaks and the view of the peak are obscured, shrouded in the clouds and veiled in the mist, almost as if the mountain is being coy.

But we have arrived safe and the weather is due to clear in the next day or so. I can’t wait to get a view of the mountain peak.

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Sampling National Parks (day 2 & 3)

Driving to Colorado provides for the opportunity to check out some places along the way. Our fluid schedule had some time built in to “stop and smell the roses” a bit and Zion National Park was first on the list of roses to smell.

The Zion National Park is simply an amazing place. If you haven’t been, you need to add this national treasure your Life List. You will need at least a week to explore and really enjoy what the Zion canyon has to offer. At first, the Disney size crowds and shuttle waiting lines made me wonder if it was really worth the waiting. In all reality the park folks do an amazing job of managing the thousands of daily visitors. Free shuttle buses run during the peak of the season, the park was clean, and the visitor traffic (foot and car) seemed to flow fairly smoothly.  But the beauty of the canyon is the inescapable magic. The canyon walls rise up hundreds of feet in most areas and run for miles along the Virgin River. You can’t help but look up and when you do, all the questioning of other things around you fades away with the wonder of the natural beauty to witness.

Despite a late start on the first day, we hiked a part of the Angel’s Landing trail and then in the evening took the scenic drive around the park. We returned early enough the next morning to get in a good hike in part of the Narrows and Virgin River. The two days couldn’t have been more different. Sunny and warm, the first day seemed to find us behind the bubble of daily tourists. While the trail is largely paved, hiking up Angel’s Landing Trail in the afternoon sun was extremely challenging at best. Our second day was overcast and cooler, we were in early and on the shuttle quickly. Again the river-walk trail was paved but once we were hiking in and along the Virgin River in the shadows of the canyon walls, it made for a refreshing and most enjoyable time. But our time was up and we had to move on.

Back on the road we high tailed it from Zion up to visit the Arches National Park. When we arrived, the iconic Delicate arch was closed due to flooding, so we drove to the Window Arches section of the park. I think this was the better experience. It was a short walk to the several aches there and we were able to explore them much more. As the sun was getting low it was time to drive on. We rolled in to Grand Junction, CO for the night. On to Colorado Springs in the morning.

As a first time visitor through this particular part of the country I found passing through Utah, or at least southern Utah, pleasantly surprising to me with its diversity of terrain and features. There is so much of nature to see here. The magnitude of the way these lands formed and continue to change is amazing to see. These two short stops at these two parks told me I think I will definitely need to add a couple new things to my play list.

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The sun is rising (day 1)

The sun is rising in the Eastern sky as we leave Las Vegas behind us. The skys are clear, maybe some white cotton ball clouds at the edges. The mountains to the North of use are both bathed in the light of the rising sun and still cloaked with shadows as the night melts away. The pristine desert floor is dotted with man’s influences. We are clearly moving into western desert terrain.

We left San Diego late yesterday afternoon and traveling through the Mojave desert, made the outskirts of Las Vegas late last night. Even late at night the desert heat was oppressive. Fortunately the hotel AC was able to reach ice-box level cold, along with some home crafted ale we chilled and sleep well. 5 AM came quick and we’re back on the road heading to Pike’s Peak via Zion National Park. The weather today is forecast to be much cooler – mid 80s which should make for good hiking in Angels Landing.

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My bags are packed, I’m ready to go

Sitting here in a San Diego coffee shop, I’m watching the world go by, drinking my coffee, listening to a little music, knowing very soon I will be heading East towards Pike’s Peak. This is an item I’ve had on my Life List for a couple years now, to hike up Pike’s Peak. To stand on top of a mountain and to look out across the world is somewhat awe-inspiring. But this is only a piece of this adventure. To travel and explore somewhere again with my family is something I find really cherish. It’s been too long.

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A true and fictum history of S’more

How history wasn’t really made.

Back in the very early 1900’s (some believe it was either 1897 or 1901 but no one is really sure), a small group of misdirected entrepreneurs were down and out on their luck. Samuel Moore (a little known corporate motivator at the time) invited Milton Hershey, Sylvester Graham, and a few other unknown inventors to the first every “Guy Bonding Weekend” in Highmeadow Pennsylvania. To help break the group of food inventors out of their rut, Sam had asked each camper to bring with them an idea they had been working on but were stuck.

Sam’s idea was to try to get the group out of their funk and back to making money so he could keep being paid to motivate them and make more money. The whole weekend was a total disaster with almost constant bickering and fighting amongst the group. The weekend ended with a massive food fight involving various diet crackers, chocolate samples and white sugary confections, and fisticuffs between Milton and Sylvester at the Saturday dinner campfire.

The fight broke up only when a group of young women hikers looking for a suitable camp site unexpectedly happen to show up. Sam was completely embarrassed and apologized to the group of young women campers. The guys quickly packed their gear and left the woods never to see or talk with each other again. The women hikers were left to clean up the mess left by the brawling food fighters.

Most of the inventors were so depressed following their “motivational” weekend they never invented anything again. Samuel Moore gave up corporate motivation as a profession and sold his business interests to his mail room clerk Dale Carnegie. Sylvester Graham found religion, was born again, and became a reverend. He preached a health food diet called the Graham Diet which didn’t work so well as it also focused on abstinence.

Milton Hershey was probably one of the more successful survivors of that fateful weekend. He ended up settling in Pennsylvania and abandoning his prior entrepreneurial pursuits, he entered politics. He did well for a while and even had a small town named after him. However he was later was indicted for soliciting kisses from students at the local all women’s college (he claimed he was trying to make ends meet selling candy, the charges were eventually dropped and the case never went to court).

It was years later when the group of civic minded women hikers would form the Girl Scouts of America and claim credit for the invention of the S’more.

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Go where life is lived … (2)

“Go where life is lived out of stuff sacks and gourmet meals require only hot water.”

This caught my eye this morning and I would be remiss if I failed to follow up with why I love this line so much.

As I said this morning I begin my travels to hike Pikes Peak shortly. My kids (including spouses), will be joining me on this adventure. This in of itself will be wonderful time, but there’s more. These words invoked a kind of Indiana Jones image of adventure travel (at least in my mind, but maybe with less bad guy Nazis).

It’s one thing to travel around and live out of a suitcase, as I have many times and I know the vast majority of people who travel do as well whether for business or for recreation, it’s just not inspiring. It sounds like a burden. To exist. To slog from point A to point B with the least amount of joy. So to pare down your luggage to simply living out of stuff sacks and eating meals so simple they just need some hot water to make them wonderful, implies you are not traveling the beaten path, you are not stopping long enough to unpack, you relish even the simplest foods, the journey is the destination. Imagine yourself  traveling across the a continent with little more than a few essentials in a small satchel. It’s not about what you take on a trip which makes it an adventure, it’s about what you leave behind.

It’s a little difficult to put in to words, why there is a certain joy in adventure traveling and why these words so exited me. Admittedly there can be some boring moments and there is a level of some slogging which happens. But some of it is the euphoric feeling when you crest a summit, when you break out of the tree lined trail on to a mountain bald, you drop you gear in the grass, and just sit in the warm sun for a moment looking out across the mountains and hills of the earth all the way to the horizon. Or the feeling of awe when you are walking along the trail and discover a new fawn laying in the ferns just feet from you. I think it’s these moments when you connect with the natural world which drive the desire to do it again. To travel new places, to experience new things, to push out to the edge of your comfort zone. The words which caught my attention this morning as I was sitting drinking coffee, were almost like a blessing for the upcoming journey, “Go where life is lived out of stuff sacks and gourmet meals require only hot water.”

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Go where life is lived … (1)

Sipping a morning coffee, this ad popped up in my feed this morning, the tag line was “Go where life is lived out of stuff sacks and gourmet meals require only hot water.” This concept excited me for a number of reasons. The biggest being I begin my travels to hike Pikes Peak this weekend. My kids, whom I love very much, will be joining me on this epic adventure. Sigh RT calls more later
#LetsCamp

Everybitthejourney.com

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The end of hike meal

One of the joys I find in hiking is a celebratory meal at the end of the trip or section. As a group we would try to pick out some kinds of food everyone had been craving over the miles of trail and feast. Hikers burn an amazing number of calories per day. After a couple days on the trail it’s not uncommon for the conversations to shift to food. People will gush about their favorite foods, the way mom cooked it, the best restaurant, the strangest combinations (Easter Peeps & peanut butter sandwiches). I think part of this food craving talk is kicked off by a physiological need for the body to refuel and rebuild. I also think it’s part “happy place.” Sights and smells can trigger memories and emotions and foods are no exception. Its not that hike makes you sad but often when stressed people will seek food for comfort, they are looking for that happy place. I think there is a sweet spot a few days in to a hiking which occurs where your body is aching a little and you’ve hiking enough not to be able to eat more than you burn, and that’s when thoughts turn to food.

But it’s not just about the food either. I have done a couple solo hikes and had post hike meals (the food was fine) which were nothing more than the next meal and I’ve had amazing post hike meals at places where the pizza is little more than a pre-formed crust assembled by a staff with a less than mediocre care factor. It’s also about the company you break bread with. The magic happens with others to share the celebration of the adventure. To eat, drink, and be merry with, whether friends or family, the group setting for tales to be told, a meal to share, is the making of a celebration.  These are what I savor.

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Uncle Nick Grindstaff – AT 2017

In early June of this year I was hiking over Iron Mountain while backpacking along the Appalachian trail and happened across the monument/grave of Uncle Nick Grindstaff. The inscription simply read:

“Uncle Nick Grindstaff
Born
Dec. 26, 1851
Died
July 22, 1923
Lived alone, suffered alone, and died alone”

Standing at a man’s grave on a mountain top, I could not help but wonder about the man behind the monument. This was the best back story I could find about him (https://bcyesteryear.com/uncle-nick-a-hermit-found-serenity-in-his-iron-mountain-shack). He died alone in his cabin in 1923. While he was a hermit, he was well known to his neighbors and they erected this monument to him after his death.

Ironically Uncle Nick, in search of solitude, found popularity. Remembered by his friends and family, he is now visited by hundreds of hikers each year, most of them in search of the same thing in some shape or form … solitude.

I left a pebble on his monument as I walked away.

(link updated 3/28/2023)

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