The journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step, and this is mine.

Montana Mountains

Category: 2019 Palmetto Challenge

2019 Palmetto Challenge

We’re Off and Hiking (Part 2 – we’re done)

We Completed the 2019 Palmetto Challenge and I figured I would give you a quick update on how we did.

Backstory: In March, Radar and I signed up for the 2019 Palmetto Challenge and I was very pleased to learn I could include his mileage with mine for this event. I had set a pretty arbitrary personal goal 200 miles for the seven week challenge.

How we did: We came in third place of the two member teams! We logged just over 298 combined miles together, which is almost a hundred miles more than my original goal. I only counted the miles where both Radar and I actually hiked together.

What we did: Together, Radar and I hiked just over;

  • 7 miles of the Givhans Ferry State Park trails,
  • 6 miles of the Congaree National Park trails,
  • 10 miles of the Palmetto Trail,
  • and 139 miles of other local trails and around our neighborhood.

What I learned: The rules indicated you did not have to hike together, even if you were in a team. You could just gather the individual team members mileage and combine it for a weekly team total. The rules also did not limit you to just the outdoors and trails, you could count steps at work, at home, etc., basically you could count steps from the time you got up in the morning to the time you went to bed.

Next year I’ll get us both FitBits.

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Congaree NP Entrance Sign

Hiking South Carolina – Congaree National Park

Radar and I hit the boardwalks of the Congaree National Park as part of our Palmetto Challenge and we were not disappointed. The last time I had visited the Congaree swamp area, it was the Congaree Swamp National Monument. There was just a basic visitor center, a few hundred feet of boardwalk, and an open field designated for camping. Congress did a great thing in 2003 when they re-designated the monument as the Congaree National Park.

Many improvements have been made as a result of the national park (NP) designation. The campsites have been upgraded to actual real designated camp sites with central latrines. There is paved parking and a new, much larger, visitor center which explains the history and importance of the entire Congaree basin. It’s here you can also pick up the map and narrative for the Self-guided Boardwalk Tour, which Radar and I did at the start of our walk. The best part of the the park improvements are expansion of the boardwalks and trails. There are almost two and a half miles of boardwalks with dozens of miles of foot trails winding deep through the rich swamp.

On the day of our visit, the weather was perfect. The trees were in their spring green and their high 130 foot canopy providing wonderful shade and a cool breeze. The river water however was elevated at just over 8 feet, and as part of the natural flood cycle, almost all of the low trails were underwater including a portion of the low boardwalk. We walked the low boardwalk out about a half mile to where the flooding waters took over. We stood at the waters edge and watched the water slowly making it’s way through the trees around us. It was kind of magical to be able to stand in the middle of a flooded, flowing swamp. We backtracked and followed the elevated boardwalk out to Weston Lake and then a little past where one of the trails intersected the boardwalk. The floodwaters prevented us from looping any of the trails this day, but we had a great time exploring anyway.

This park offers some great opportunities to explore a rare old growth forest, either afoot or afloat. You can hike deep in to the park on the River & Kingsnake trails. if you like paddling, you can take some amazing float trips through the swamp via canoe or kayak on Cedar Creeks and along the Congaree River itself. My first couple canoe trips in South Carolina were centered around the Congaree River and Swamp. My family and I canoed a very memorable 48 miles of the Congaree River, camping in the wilderness on the banks of the Congaree Park (National Monument at the time). The following month, I led a weekend canoe trek with my scout troop starting on Cedar Creek in the swamp and making our way out on to the Congaree River, again camping in the wilderness. Both trips were adventures in exploration of a wilderness not likely to be found anywhere else.

Conagree NP Weston Lake
Conagree NP Weston Lake

As the largest remaining tract of old-growth bottom-land hardwood forest in North America, the Congaree National Park is a must-visit if you ever find yourself in the area.

Congaree National Park (120′) | SC 48 (Bluff Road) | Richland Co. | Hopkins, SC | 16 April 2019 | 6 miles | 106′ gain | Easy

Favorite Time of year: Spring and fall for camping.

Things to Know: Check the water levels prior to going, you can call or check the river gauges here. Please speak to a park ranger before setting a geocache.

Camping: You need a prepaid reservation for front-country campgrounds, you can make reservations through Recreation.gov or by calling 1-877-444-6777. Back-country camping is allowed please the the Camping page of the NP site for details.

Pet friendly: Pets allowed in most outdoor areas but must be physical restraint or on a leash not longer than six feet. Be respectful of others on the boardwalks.

Getting There: Congaree NP is in the midlands of South Carolina, just South of Columbia about 30 miles, East of I-26 and South of I-77, just off Old Bluff Road. It’s about an hours drive from the Charleston area.

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Eutaw Springs Passage of the Palmetto Trail

South Carolina – Eutaw Springs & Santee Passages

Are you looking for a nice +20 or 30 mile section of trail to take you through shaded woods and rolling meadows to see nature while you hike or backpack? Possibly a secluded camp overnight? Then these two sections of the Palmetto Trail are not for you.

The Eutaw Springs Passage is a 21.3 mile section and the Santee Passage is a 12.7 mile section of the Palmetto Trail bridging the end of the Lake Moultrie Passage to the south and the Lake Marion Passage to the north. I selected both of these sections to explore and hike with Radar as part of our Palmetto Challenge mileage. Boy was I surprised.

Often when trails overlap roads out of necessity, the trails will run parallel with roads. Sometime the trails will be just off the road in the woods, occasionally using a short section of asphalt as a bridge or to link the actual hiking trail. So when I looked at the maps for these areas, I didn’t think anything of the route following along the roads. However, in this case the roads are the trail. Make no mistake here, there is no hiking “trail.” You will be walking along the roadway. For miles. There are short sections of wooded hiking trails used to link the miles of roads these routes claims to be. Out of the 34 miles these two sections make up, there is only like about 5 miles of what most people would call actual hiking trails. There is a statement included on the back of the Eutaw Springs map which states:

“Much of this trail uses rural highways and dirt roads. You should prepare for possibility of unleashed dogs and wear bright clothing (and reflectors) to warn drivers. The spur trail is occasionally wet and muddy”

I can honestly say, it’s an understated but accurate statement. I drove from the start of the Eutaw Springs Passage to mile 7 before I could find where any of the “trail” left the road for a walk in the woods. The trail section from mile 7 to 9 is a wooded trail. Radar and I hiked this in and back, enjoying a light trail side lunch. At mile 9 the wooded trail yields again to more paved road. Once we got back to the car, we drove most of the remaining route trying to identify any remaining wooded trails. Absolutely much of the roadway travels through rural neighborhoods and communities on the southwest side of Lake Marion. To call some of the houses, trailers, and buildings along this section of trail “rustic” might be a bit too generous. It looks like from mile 10.5 to 12.2 is another wooded trail section joining roads. Fedcon Road (miles 12.5 to 17) is a deceiving dirt road which was impassable somewhere around mile 15 due to really heavy deep mud ruts. There was a pick-up truck with an older guy and his hound dog, traveling ahead of us, which ended high-centered and stuck. I tried to help push him out but we ended up turning around in my car and taking him and his pup back to his home so he could get a wrecker to extract his truck from the mud.

I would not recommend hiking any of this section in the summer as you will be out on the open road and under the sun 90% of the time. And I wouldn’t hike if it’s rained recently. While most of the roads will be fine, any actual hiking trail will likely be wet and or muddy. The Rocks Pond camp ground (about a mile down campground road from mile 13) is mostly RV sites but likely has some tent sites as well. The other camp site on the trail (about mile 18.5) we didn’t make due to helping out the stuck truck, but looks like it’s on the only other section of wooded trail. We explored the Santee Passage section and it’s virtually all roadway with no designated camping.

The one really cool place to visit is in Eutaw Springs. Located just past a turn in the trail/road is the American Revolutionary War era Eutaw Springs Battlefield. This was one of the last major engagement of the war in the Carolina’s, both sides claimed victory. We forget sometimes, how old our country is and the sacrifices our forefathers made to create a new nation. Definitely worth stopping, walking, and reading the self guided interpretive signs around the battleground.

Favorite Time of year: Maybe the Spring and fall (low bug time) for camping when its cool and dry.

Things to Know: You will be traveling on public roads most of these two trail sections. Pick a day with good cloud cover and use a good sunscreen.

Camping: RV and tent camping is available at Rocks Pond Campground, trail side primitive camping around mile 18.5 on the Eutaw Springs Section. There is no designated camping in the Santee Passage Section.

Pet friendly: There are no known restrictions on the trail but I would keep on leash while on the roadways. Watch for unleashed local dogs.

Getting There: The Eutaw Springs Section starts at the Diversion Canal, about an hours drive from the Charleston area. Good luck.

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Givhans Ferry State Park Entrance

Hiking South Carolina – Givhans Ferry State Park

Located on the high limestone bluff on a gentle bend in the Edisto River, Givhans Ferry State Park offers a relaxing place to sit and watch the river flow by.


Relax on the porch of the Riverfront Hall a popular spot for family gatherings
(from the SCSP web site).

Just 35 miles from downtown Charleston, Givhans Ferry has cabins, RV, and standard tent sites, as well as a primitive camping area. This park has the unique distinction of being located at the end of the 23-mile Edisto River kayak and canoe trail which begins upriver at Colleton State Park. The Edisto River is the longest free-flowing, blackwater river in North America. There is a really nice sand beach for wading and swimming along with a new integrated ramp for launching and recovery of canoes and kayaks making this a must do for paddle craft sports.

The bridge in Givhans Ferry State Park on the River Bluff Trail
The bridge in Givhans Ferry State Park on the River Bluff Trail

For hiking, Givhans has a fairly short 1.5 mile River Bluff trail in the main park, however if you cross the road at the park entrance you can pick up the 4.7 mile Old Loop Trail which winds around the perimeter of the largely undeveloped park boundary with woods on both sides. Radar and I took a day and hiked both the River bluff trail and then the Old Loop trail as one big loop, for just over 7.4 miles returning to where we started.

Hiking the Old Loop Trail with Radar
Hiking the Old Loop Trail with Radar

The park is located where there was a ferry crossing the river dating way back to the 1700’s. In the 1930’s, this was one of the original 16 South Carolina state parks built with the help of the Civilian Conservation Corps. The park consists of about 988 acres and offers swimming, fishing, boating, and bird watching. There are also picnic shelters, a playground, and several geocaches are located on the park.

On the bluff is a small grave for Mary E. Ford
On the bluff is a small grave for Mary E. Ford

Givhans Ferry State Park (123′) | County Rd S-18-30 |Ridgeville | Dorchester, SC | 11 March 2019 | 7.4 miles | 163′ gain | Moderate

Favorite Time of year: Spring and fall for camping.

Things to Know: Please speak to a park ranger before setting a geocache. Swimming is permitted in the Edisto River, but with no life guard, at your own risk of course.

Camping: Camping from RV to primitive is available at Givhans. go here for reservations or call (843) 873-0692.

Pet friendly: Pets allowed in most outdoor areas but must be physical restraint or on a leash not longer than six feet.

Getting There: Givhans is in the lowcountry of South Carolina, just East of Summerville, between I-95 and I-26, just off SC-61N. It’s about an hours drive from the Charleston area.

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The bridge in Givhans Ferry State Park on the River Bluff Trail

And We’re Off and Hiking

It’s day 1 of the hiking challenge and our first hike is in the bag.

I signed Radar and myself up for the 2019 Palmetto Challenge a couple weeks ago and today was the start of the challenge. Basically, the Palmetto Conservation Foundation (the folks who administer the Palmetto Trail) is sponsoring Palmetto Challenge to “inspire teams to hike or bike as many miles as possible between March 11 and April 28”. So “We” signed up. I wasn’t sure at first if Radar’s miles would count with mine, or really how the miles would be counted in the teams. Then I received a confirmation email last week with all the rules and etc. information. The best line in it was “Teams that have registered a dog as their team mate will be counting the mileage done by the dog during the week the same as a human partner.” Woot woot, Radar’s as good as a human! He’ll be so happy to hear.

Radar taking a short break hiking the Givhans Ferry State Park trails
Radar taking a short break hiking the Givhans Ferry State Park trails

We did our first hike for record today at Givhans Ferry State Park (more on this park later). In some parts of our area the leaves and flowers are starting to pop. The park however was really still in it’s winter colors with very little signs of spring. And despite a recent rain last night, every thing had a light yellow pollen tint, which is typical for us this time of year. I was hoping to see more green and spring colors today but I know their coming. Anyway, the weather was great as we headed out. We started with the River Bluff Trail, then rolled over on to the Old Loop Trail, and finally making our way back to where we left the car, just ahead of the rain, covering just over 7.4 miles.

Radar normally talks me in to going with him for a walk either around the farm or for a couple miles down the road at least several times a week. For this challenge, I knew we needed more miles, so I started a list of local hikes to draw from as well. Somewhere on my list is an overnight trip on the Palmetto Trail. Unfortunately, I think we’ll be able to burn up the available local trails pretty quickly and may need to do some new trails in the up-state. But this Givhans hike was first on the list. Beginning next week you will be able to follow team progress here. It was nice to get out in the woods walking and I’m looking forward to more hikes with my team mate.

Givhans Ferry State Park (123′) | County Rd S-18-30 |Ridgeville | Dorchester, SC | 11 March 2019 | 7.4 miles | 163′ gain | Moderate

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2019 Palmetto Challenge

He doesn’t know yet …

I signed us up for the 2019 Palmetto Trail Challenge and Radar is going to be my plus one. He just doesn’t know it yet.

This 48 day event is hosted by the Palmetto Conservation Foundation (PCF) and is intended to inspire teams to hike or bike as many miles as possible between March 11 and April 28 “on the state’s trails, greenways, sidewalks, and hallways” (yes, they said hallways).

This is great motivation to get out and hike more. I needed some trail time to help me prepare for this summer’s Appalachian Trail section hike with our volunteer group this summer. I’ve been doing fair amount of daily walking (along with other fitness stuff) around the neighborhood, but I want to get out more and see some of the local trails too. The challenge sounds kind of open ended if it includes “hallways” but I intend to use the challenge to close some of the trail section gaps I have in the Palmetto Trail, as well as hit the local trails around me. For Radar, he loves taking walks and hikes with me. He regularly walks with me in the neighborhood and we have done a couple day hikes in state parks like Lee and Croft, he has been a really great trail partner. With this challenge I hope to include at least one overnighter with him. I fully expect to work him (and me) up to both our longer hikes and our first over night camping experience. This should be a great learning experience for both of us. I’m excited for him. He just doesn’t know it yet but he’ll be excited too.

Radar sporting his Ruffwear day pack
Radar Radar sporting his Ruffwear day pack

So, whats a challenge without a goal? I’m going to put 200 miles on the table as our goal. We’ll see. I thing it’s obtainable with enough stretch to be motivating. But I’m not including any hallways.

Each week the teams send in their prior week total mileage, it gets recorded and displayed on the PCF website to help motivate the other teams. It seems last years participants hiked 8,000 mikes. If you are interested in taking up the challenge, then March 4th (noon) is the last day to register!

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